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Fast fashion retailer Shein has been accused by independent designers of infringement-related racketeering activities in a new lawsuit. According to The Fashion Law, a lawsuit was filed on Tuesday (11 July) in California federal court that accused the clothing giant of using a “secretive algorithm” to identify trending art and allegedly reproducing the independent designs for its fast fashion website. The three independent artists suing Shein – Krista Perry, Larissa Martinez, and Jay Baron – claimed both Shein and its parent company, Zoetop Business Company, Ltd, engaged in “produc[ing], distribut[ing], and selling exact copies of their creative works,” which they allege is “part and parcel of Shein’s ‘design’ process and organizational DNA.” In the suit, Perry, Martinez and Baron claim Shein replicated “truly exact copies of [their] copyrightable graphic designs” such as Berry’s artwork titled “Make It Fun” and Blintz’s “Orange Daises” design. Barron’s “Trying My Best” artwork, which they claim was also copied by Shein, is not only a registered copyright but the phrase was also trademarked by Barron. As a result, the plaintiffs argue that they “have suffered and will continue to suffer substantial damage” to their businesses and “a diminishment in the value of their designs and art, their rights, and their reputations”. In the complaint, the plaintiffs allege that Shein created a “secretive algorithm” to identify growing fashion trends and “produce very small quantities of [its] item for sale” – as 100-200 units per SKU – in the case that an artist claims “the design was stolen”. “The brand has made billions by creating a secretive algorithm that astonishingly determines nascent fashion trends – and by coupling it with a corporate structure, including production and fulfillment schemes, that are perfectly executed to grease the wheels of the algorithm, including its unsavory and illegal aspects,” the artists argue in the suit. “When Shein copies a small or independent designer, the most likely outcome (without brand protection specialists and specialized software on the lookout) is that the infringement will go unnoticed,” the complaint reads. The lawsuit named Chris Xu as the maker behind the algorithm, a “mysterious tech genius” who has allegedly made Shein “the world’s top clothing company through high technology, not high design.” While Shein has faced many lawsuits in recent years, the newest complaint is notable for its Racketeer Influenced and Corrupt Organizations Act (RICO) claim. RICO is a federal law designed to combat organized crime in the United States, and individuals or organisations can use the RICO Act to file civil claims against racketeering activities performed as an ongoing criminal enterprise. Another requirement to file a RICO claim is that the offending party is not just an individual or business but a criminal organization, as the suit claims Shein’s alleged infringement activity is “committed not by a single entity, but by a de-facto association of entities.” The plaintiffs claim that Shein’s “confusing corporate structure” allows the company to “avoid liability” in the case of intellectual property infringement, adding that the brand’s “first line of defense” when facing a copyright or trademark cease and desist is “removing the product from its sites with blaming the misconduct on another [Shein entity] actor (implying such actor is independent).” As a result, the artists have accused Shein of “multiple acts of racketeering and criminal copyright infringement” and are seeking past and future damages, as well as compensation for legal fees and injunctive relief to “prevent further racketeering activity”. This is not the first time Shein has faced accusations of infringement. In May, artist Maggie Stephenson settled with Shein for an undisclosed amount after she filed a $100 million lawsuit last year. That same month, Italian fashion designer Giuliano Calza claimed the retailer stole shoe designs from his streetwear label, GCDS. The new lawsuit comes after a Shein-sponsored influencer trip made headlines for promoting Shein’s factory in Guangzhou, China. The influencers were invited to tour Shein’s “innovation factory”, as they posted videos showing a clean, brightly lit factory with automated bots assisting in processing and packaging orders. However, the influencer trip faced backlash as many pointed out the fast fashion company’s accusations of labour abuse and its negative impact on the environment. The Independent has contacted Shein for comment. Read More Italian designer launches scathing attack on Shein over ‘stolen ideas’: ‘Maybe I am the fool’ Influencers face backlash for promoting Shein factory during PR trip in China Parent company of fast-fashion brand Shein to pay New York state $1.9m for data breach Barbie premiere: All the best pink carpet looks as Margot Robbie film shows in London Why these women are – and aren’t – shaving their armpits this summer These are the summer bag trends you need to know about

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Always one of the most eagerly awaited events at London Fashion Week, the Burberry catwalk show attracts A-list celebrities, high-profile fashion editors and the biggest influencers from around the world. Last season, supermodel Naomi Campbell sat alongside Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Jason Statham on the front row to watch chief creative officer Daniel Lee unveil his debut collection, and expectations are high for the designer’s second show, which takes place on September 18. Coveted by consumers across the globe, the luxury label is perhaps the most famous British fashion brand, but it hasn’t always been such a hot property. Ahead of London Fashion Week, which starts on September 15, we look back at the tumultuous history of Burberry… Adventurous origins The brand was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old former draper’s apprentice Thomas Burberry opened his first shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire. Focused on creating outerwear that shielded wearers from typical British weather, the founder invented gabardine – a water-resistant but breathable fabric – and patented it in 1888. “Prior to this, waterproof clothing was made of rubberised cotton which was cumbersome, not breathable and certainly not chic,” explains celebrity fashion stylist Miranda Holder. “In contrast, garbadine’s individual fibres were waterproofed before the weaving process, creating a lighter, more fluid and comfortable piece.” In early examples of celebrity endorsement, Norwegian explorer and zoologist Dr Fridtjof Nansen wore Burberry gabardine when he sailed to the Arctic Circle in 1893, while famed British explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton chose the outerwear for three expeditions in the early 1900s. The war years The now-iconic Burberry trench coat was invented during WWI with a range of features designed for military use – including the gun flap and D-rings to carry grenades – many of which remain today. “Each classic Burberry trench is composed of 90 individual, specially shaped components,” says Savile Row tailor Alexandra Wood, founder of Alexandra Wood Bespoke. “The key design elements include its double-breasted front, shoulder epaulettes, beige colour, belted waist, buckled cuffs, storm flap, and a checked lining that the brand has become synonymous with.” The distinctive beige Burberry ‘nova check’ was introduced in the 1920s and is still used as a lining now, with the ever-popular trench coats retailing from around £1,500. “The appeal of the Burberry trench has to be largely due to its adaptability,” says Holder. “The coat’s pale beige colour perfectly lends itself to a myriad of different outfit options, and the flash of luxury lining – nova check or not – makes it instantly recognisable as a luxury piece.” The royal seal of approval In 1955, Queen Elizabeth II granted Burberry a royal warrant as a weatherproofer, and by the Swinging Sixties business was booming, with the brand saying it made one in five coats exported from Britain. The nova check graduated from discreet lining to designer status symbol, with coats, scarves and umbrellas in the beige print proving popular with shoppers in the Seventies. In 1990, Burberry secured its second royal warrant, as an outfitter, from the now King. Noughties notoriety After decades of success, the Burberry shine was tarnished when a more mainstream audience embraced nova check in the late 1990s, snapping up entry-level items and causing the brand to discontinue sales of baseball caps. “The pattern soon filtered down to the high streets and eventually the football terraces – it remains one of the most copied counterfeit designs today,” says Holder. “As a result Burberry’s star fell hard, the brand losing any exclusivity it once had, being unable to control who wore the label.” Paparazzi photos of Eastenders actress Danniella Westbrook in head to toe nova check were seen as the final nail in the coffin, she adds: “Danniella was getting a lot of very negative publicity at the time, relegating the designer to the bins of bad taste.” The catwalk comeback Attempting to rehabilitate the brand as the new millennium dawned, Burberry opened its first store on upmarket Bond Street in 2000 and brought in 29-year-old Christopher Bailey as design director the following year. “Christopher Bailey made a significant impact during his tenure as creative director by modernising Burberry’s image, introducing digital innovations, and collaborating with artists and musicians,” says Wood. “It made Burberry fresher and more relevant and helped to make the brand have an edge, whilst remaining sympathetic to its crisp, British design aesthetic.” Scaling back production of nova check, Bailey brought glamour to the brand and staged blockbuster catwalk shows with live music from artists such as Tom Odell and James Bay. “He updated the classic trench, putting new twists on the heritage design and bringing in supermodel Kate Moss to give it a new lease of life,” Holder says. “Bailey successfully repositioned Burberry as an industry leader and innovator, and as a result, tickets to their catwalk shows were some of the most sought after on the London Fashion Week schedule.” A-list appeal Following the departure of Christopher Bailey with a memorable rainbow-themed catwalk show, Italian designer Riccardo Tisci was appointed chief creative officer at Burberry in 2018. “Riccardo Tisci injected some younger, more contemporary energy into the aesthetic, which was a roaring success,” Holder says. “Influenced by streetwear, his collections attracted younger fans who appreciated his edgier styles, despite critics pointing out a lack of continuity with the brand’s more traditional heritage.” Tisci enlisted model friends such as Kendall Jenner and Irina Shayk to walk the runway and dressed stars including Nicki Minaj and Kate Moss for the Met Gala. He also reintroduced nova check, much to the delight of celebrities and a new generation of Burberry fans. Bradford-born Daniel Lee took over from Tisci and made his debut at London Fashion Week in February 2023. The autumn/winter collection – which didn’t feature any beige trench coats – teamed sweeping coats and chunky knitwear with irreverent accessories like a woolly hat shaped like a duck and hot water bottles carried like clutch bags.

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Harry Styles is the latest celebrity to be replicated in wax form as Madame Tussauds has unveiled not one, but seven wax figures of the popstar after receiving "thousands of fan requests." The seven waxworks will be on display at museums in London, New York, Los Angeles, Amsterdam, Berlin, Singapore and Sydney, each of them sporting some of the singer's iconic looks from recent years. In London, the Harry figure wears a double-breasted hunter green blazer, large flower broach, pistachio green trousers, ivory boots and a bright green handbag, the look is paired with a classic pearl necklace jewellery which references Styles's My Policeman premiere outfit during the 2022 Toronto International Film Festival. Sign up to our free Indy100 weekly newsletter After it took 10 months for Madame Tussauds’ artists to complete, the public can see the figure for themselves when it premieres on July 27. In New York, the Harry waxwork will sport the memorable sequin rainbow jumpsuit wore during his 2022 headlining Coachella set, while Berlin's figure will wear Styles's another of his Coachella costumes - an oversize faux fur coat paired with a metallic leather waistcoat and trousers. While some of the other figures will don outfits the As It Was singer has previously worn during his Love On Tour concert series. Sydney’s Styles figure dons a pink satin shirt, burgundy trousers and a feather boa, from one of his shows in San Jose, California. A bronze sequin vest with fringe attached originally worn at a gig in Long Island, New York, is what the LA wax figure will have on, while in Amsterdam it will be a a pink double-breasted suit with floral embroidery, similar to a look he wore on stage in Dallas. For Singapore's Styles waxwork, a blue and yellow two-piece from the Glasgow leg of his Love On Tour concert series will be sported. But what do Harry fans make of the waxwork - here are some of the best reactions to the Harry Styles London waxwork: Many were impressed with the images they saw of the figure, describing it as "scary accurate." Though others disagreed, and while they note it isn't the worst waxwork they've seen, they noted how "something is off." While others made some comparisons, from Margaret Thatcher to Princess Diana, Benedict Cumberbatch and Don't Worry Darling co-star Chris Pine... Fans can see the Harry Styles waxwork in person at Madame Tussauds in London from July 27. Have your say in our news democracy. Click the upvote icon at the top of the page to help raise this article through the indy100 rankings.

REDMOND, Wash.--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Jul 6, 2023--