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A new exhibition puts the spotlight on the contribution of black designers in British fashion. “A lot of what black creatives do is informed by some of those darker and negative experiences. It’s our secret weapon,” said Jason Jules, who curated The Missing Thread: Untold Stories of Black British Fashion, alongside Harris Elliott and Andrew Ibi. The exhibition at Somerset House looks at fashion, music, photography and art from the 1970s to present day, using four distinct themes: home, tailoring, performance and nightlife. It doesn’t shy away from the vivid experiences of racism and discrimination, and highlights how political yet liberating clothes can be for black communities. The exhibition features commissions from a new generation of black designers, including Bianca Saunders, Saul Nash and Nicholas Daley, as well as up-and-coming artists such as London-based couturier Ninivah Khomo and patternmaker Monisola Omotoso. There’s also the presence of design legends – such as Ozwald Boateng, Bruce Oldfield – who designed a red silk crepe dress worn by Diana, Princess of Wales – and Joe Casely-Hayford, a designer and tailor who started showing collections in the 1980s and died in 2019. “Joe was the starting point for this entire exhibition,” Jules said. “He is the most missing part of the narrative [of mainstream fashion]. Individually we’ve all worked with Joe. On one level he seemed like he was just constantly in fashion, very aspirational, elegant, a sophisticated and distant person. But beyond the surface, he was actually very social, non-judgemental, playful, fun – the whole lot. “And in a sense, we wanted to communicate the dichotomy between how we see people and ourselves. “For me, he was the best designer this country ever had, because when you put him back in his rightful place, he transforms the entire British and global landscape of how we understand fashion.” Ibi agreed: “To be able to sustain that level of tenacity for such a long period of time, when you are consistently overlooked, is just amazing. And not enough people know who he is, especially young black people. “This is why it’s never been just about fashion, because in the background, whether you were studying or trying to get to the club, taxis wouldn’t even stop for you. It didn’t matter if you were creative or not.” The curators hope that the immersive exhibition, which “references our lives, time, progress, and development”, Ibi said, will highlight that black people have always been in fashion. Elliott – who set up The Black Orientated Legacy Development Agency (BOLD) with Ibi and Jules – said: “Style was always inherently in our genes. We couldn’t leave our homes dressed in a certain way. You had to always look impeccable to get anywhere in life, when melanin is your best friend.” The Morgan Stanley Exhibition – The Missing Thread: Untold Stories of Black British Fashion exhibition opens on September 21, 2023 and will run until January 7, 2024 at Somerset House.

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Reality star Kourtney Kardashian has revealed she had to undergo emergency fetal surgery to save her baby’s life. In an Instagram post, the 44-year-old, who is pregnant with her and husband Travis Barker’s child, explained she was rushed to hospital where doctors were able to save her unborn baby. Barker, 47, who is the drummer for rock band Blink 182, “rushed” back from the band’s UK and Ireland tour to be by his wife’s side. Kardashian wrote: “I will be forever grateful to my incredible doctors for saving our baby’s life. “I am eternally grateful to my husband who rushed to my side from tour to be with me in the hospital and take care of me afterwards, my rock. And to my mom, thank you for holding my hand through this.” Kardashian shares three children with her former partner Scott Disick and opened up about how going from having three “really easy pregnancies” to having to undergo fetal surgery filled her with a level of “fear” she was unprepared for. She continued: “As someone who has had three really easy pregnancies in the past, I wasn’t prepared for the fear of rushing into urgent fetal surgery. “I don’t think anyone who hasn’t been through a similar situation can begin to understand that feeling of fear. “I have a whole new understanding and respect for the mamas who have had to fight for their babies while pregnant. “Praise be to God. Walking out of the hospital with my baby boy in my tummy and safe was the truest blessing.” In the comments, many offered their support to the couple after their frightening experience. “Sending you and @travisbarker all my bundles of hugs and healing,” one wrote. Another said: “Love you. So thankful everything is ok.” Sign up to our free Indy100 weekly newsletter Have your say in our news democracy. Click the upvote icon at the top of the page to help raise this article through the indy100 rankings.

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Have you clocked TikTok’s “lazy girl job” trend? It’s all about prioritising work-life balance over a job that drains you dry. A “lazy girl job” is one that pays well enough for you to live comfortably – but doesn’t need to define your entire self-worth and consume too much of your time and energy. On the surface, this all sounds quite healthy, a backlash to the always-on ‘hustle culture’ that’s become ingrained in the modern world. So, why are wellbeing experts concerned? Work-life balance isn’t lazy “Turning your back on hustle culture shouldn’t be deemed ‘lazy’,” Tina Woods, CEO of Business for Health, a business-led coalition focused on improving workforce health, told PA Media. “A healthy work-life balance should be encouraged, rather than shamed, and employees shouldn’t feel guilty or ashamed for prioritising their wellbeing and mental health over their work duties and workload.” So, it’s not so much the concept behind ‘lazy girl jobs’ that’s problematic. Rather, it’s the use of the word ‘lazy’ to describe somebody who works a reasonable number of hours and values their wellbeing, and the reasons we got to this point in the first place. Have we normalised overworking? There may be times when people need or choose to hustle, or devote a larger chunk of their time towards a particular goal. That’s not something we need to sweepingly demonise necessarily. “Just as we shouldn’t shame employees who do set boundaries in the workplace and [want] a healthy work-life balance, there will be some employees who enjoy ‘hustle culture’,” Woods added. “Ultimately, employees should have the choice and flexibility to work how they choose to.” What isn’t good though is how “overworking” has become “expected” as part of modern working culture, she explained. We’re seeing a growing culture of overworking being celebrated... Tina Woods, Business for Health CEO “Hustle culture has grown in popularity since the pandemic, with side hustles on the rise amongst employees, especially Gen Z. However, the notion of pushing yourself and putting your all into your work can cause both physical and mental effects. It can lead to a toxic working pattern and trigger stress and burnout, as well as physical ailments such as disrupted sleep patterns and exhaustion,” said Woods. “More often, we’re seeing a growing culture of overworking being celebrated and, in many situations, expected. Whether this presents itself through staying at the office late, or not taking a lunch break or annual leave, working tirelessly is being rewarded by some seniors, and it shouldn’t become the norm.” What does this mean for young women? The fact the trend has been centred on ‘girls’ is another point of consideration. “Traditionally, women and especially mothers have faced stigma in the workplace. This includes stigma around personality traits, maternity leave and women’s health. As a result, many female employees will feel the need to push themselves harder or work longer hours than their male peers,” said Woods. “Women and parents are more likely to report lower mental health, putting them more at risk for mental health conditions such as anxiety and depression. This, coupled with the pressure women may already feel at work and stigma, such as the latest ‘lazy girl job’ trend, means employers need to ensure they’re creating a supportive work culture and healthy environment.” Culture shift According to Woods, there is a responsibility for employers to drive cultural shifts towards a healthier approach to work with a focus on preventative measures, rather than waiting until employees are encountering problems such as burnout or chronic stress, and then responding. “Setting boundaries that lead to a healthy work-life balance is something that should be encouraged in the workplace. It’s clear that post-pandemic, the boundaries have become blurred, with many adapting to hybrid and remote working. However, this is an issue employers need to make a priority,” said Woods. “By doing so, workplaces will see higher levels of presenteeism, alongside boosted morale, engagement and productivity. In a tight labour market, attracting and retaining employees is also vital. Wellbeing plays a big role in that. “Policies such as ‘Permission to Pause’ can be really powerful in encouraging a healthy work-life balance. They give employees autonomy and the ability to stop and take some time for their wellbeing within the working day, without feeling guilty,” she added. “Perhaps, most importantly of all, employers need to listen and respond to the needs of their own workforce and sector, recognising there is no ‘one size fits all’ solution to health and wellbeing, because everyone is uniquely human. Business leaders, HR managers and line managers can work to better understand the needs of their workforce through pulse surveys, interviews, and open forums.” Read More Bride ‘reads cheating fiancé’s texts to another woman’ in front of shocked guests Duchess of Disco? 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ANKENY, Iowa--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Jun 21, 2023--

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