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Wings! Fake tans! Low body mass indexes! For millennial women, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show was an annual reminder of the myriad ways in which we were failing to adhere to exacting and exhausting beauty standards. When it was cancelled in 2019, few mourned it. But fashion loves a comeback story, and today the company unveiled Victoria’s Secret: The Tour ’23 on Amazon Prime Video, its first televised catwalk event in five years. According to the company, the feature-length film is the “ultimate expression” of their ongoing efforts to rehabilitate a brand that has been mired in scandal. Alongside long-standing criticisms over promoting an unrealistic body image, the company’s former marketing executive Ed Razek was also accused of behaving inappropriately with models in a New York Times report (he described the allegations as “categorically untrue, misconstrued or taken out of context”) and a recent Hulu documentary Angels and Demons explored troubling links with convicted sex offender Jeffrey Epstein. “Visually, strategically, everything about it is the incarnation of where the brand is going,” Victoria’s Secret president Greg Unis has said. Instead of the usual structure, which was centred around a straightforward runway show, The Tour ’23 is roughly divided into quarters, each focusing on one of four locations: Lagos, Nigeria; Bogota, Colombia; Tokyo, Japan; London, the UK. In each city, a local designer has dreamed up their own fashion collection to be modelled by the likes of Naomi Campbell, Emily Ratajkowski, Adut Akech, and Gigi Hadid, who does double duty as the show’s narrator. In London, the chosen designer is Michaela Stark, whose corsets aim to celebrate a diverse range of body shapes, rather than constrict them. She agreed to take part in the VS show 2.0, she suggests, so that she could counteract the damaging messages put out by the original runways. “It was a big thing” when she was a teenager, she recalls, “but it was also that culture around it, of not wanting to eat after you saw it”. Her comments inadvertently raise a question that looms over the whole production: can you ever truly detoxify a brand practically built on the insecurities of a generation of women? Founded by Roy Raymond in the late Seventies, who felt awkward buying lingerie for his wife in his local department store, Victoria’s Secret began life as a women’s underwear shop aimed specifically at men. In 1982, Raymond sold the business to Limited Stores founder Les Wexner for $1m; Wexner went on to transform the brand, envisaging it as a more affordable version of the fancy European label La Perla. In 1995, when the company was facing competition from Wonderbra, the first Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show took place at the Plaza Hotel in New York City. It proved successful enough to become an annual event. In 1999, the show was streamed on the internet for the first time, prompting the website to crash as 1.5 million users tried to tune in. Two years later, the VS show celebrated its inaugural TV broadcast, during which the National Organisation for Women (NOW) protested outside a New York branch of the shop. “Some people are terribly blase about this, that this is not a big deal, that we ought to be used to this kind of daily sexuality,” Sonia Ossorio, NOW’s vice president for public information, said at the time. “But I think we need to keep questioning the ever-extending sexualisation of women in mass media.” The following year, NOW branded the event a “softcore porn infomercial”. By then, the blueprint for future VS shows had been set. A lineup of models would don bras encrusted with millions of pounds worth of jewels and embarrassingly themed lingerie (never forget Cara Delevingne’s god-awful outfit circa 2013: a sort of miniature shell suit likely pitched in the boardroom as “sexy football fan”). Somewhere between the models, a famous singer would pop in for a brief performance; if they were a woman, they’d be decked out in a VS creation of their own (Taylor Swift got a particularly raw deal in 2013, too, when she had to wear a Union Jack-inspired number, complete with a tiny red, white and blue top hat). This glittering, over-the-top spectacle, much closer to a beauty pageant than a Fashion Week presentation, spotlighted the world’s most beautiful women – who were not just genetically blessed but worked hard, too, we were told ad nauseam. They had been preparing for the show like endurance athletes, sticking to carefully tailored diets and intense workout schedules. These wing-wearing “Angels” were selling a dream, one that we lesser mortals could supposedly buy into by picking up some synthetic underwear at our nearest Victoria’s Secret branch. But it was their painstaking fitness regimens, not the pants they were wearing, that were the real focus of fascination. In endless interviews, the models were asked to detail exactly how they whittled themselves down to “Victoria’s Secret ready” size – so that we could try and copy them. To combat the criticisms of objectification, the brand relied on its models to pay lip service to just how “empowering” the whole circus was, offering up their take on choice feminism. “There’s something really powerful about a woman who owns her sexuality and is in charge” – model Karlie Kloss was peddling this line to the media as late as 2018. “A show like this celebrates that and allows all of us to be the best versions of ourselves. Whether it’s wearing heels, make-up or a beautiful piece of lingerie – if you are in control and empowered by yourself, it’s sexy.” Naturally, it was very convenient that this “best version of ourselves” aligned with the oppressively narrow conventional standard of sexiness Victoria’s Secret was selling. By the late 2010s, though, as the fashion industry began to (slowly) address its diversity problem, Victoria’s Secret started to seem more and more like an anachronism. As other brands took small steps to spotlight plus-size models on their catwalks and in their advertising campaigns, the VS show remained the preserve of the extremely thin. They had been preparing for the show like endurance athletes, sticking to carefully tailored diets and intense workout schedules Placing white models in culturally insensitive outfits (see: Kloss walking down the runway wearing a Native American-inspired headdress) only added to the glaring PR problem, which was later exacerbated when the brand’s marketing boss Ed Razek made controversial comments about transgender people and plus-size models to Vogue in 2018. “It’s like, why doesn’t your show do this? Shouldn’t you have transsexuals in your show?” he said, apparently recalling questions from critics. “No. No, I don’t think we should. Well, why not? Because the show is a fantasy.” Elsewhere, he claimed “no one had any interest” in seeing bigger bodies on the VS catwalk. Razek later apologised, admitting that his “remark regarding the inclusion of transgender models in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show came across as insensitive”. His comments about plus-size bodies went unaddressed. In 2019, against a backdrop of plummeting TV ratings and declining sales, the brand confirmed that the VS show had been cancelled; instead, they said, the company would focus on “evolving” their marketing. The news came just a few months after the revelation that Jeffrey Epstein had provided financial advice to Victoria’s Secret founder Wexner – and had exploited his personal connection to the brand as a means to lure in young women. “Being taken advantage of by someone who was so sick, so cunning, so depraved, is something that I’m embarrassed I was even close to,” Wexner said to investors. “But that is in the past.” He left the company the following year. Since then, Victoria’s Secret has made some high-profile attempts to rectify past missteps. The company brought in a majority female board of directors; they ditched the “Angels” concept in favour of the new “VS Collective” whose ranks include actor Priyanka Chopra, US football star Megan Rapinoe, and plus-size model Paloma Elsesser. Last year, an ad campaign featuring a more diverse array of women was accompanied by the slogan “we’ve changed” – supposedly into something “ever-evolving” and “real”. How much has Victoria’s Secret “changed”, really? The latest show features a handful of plus-size models, Elsesser included, but many of the old VS cohort are present and correct, including Candice Swanepoel, Lily Aldridge, and Adriana Lima. The nods to body diversity can’t help but feel a bit cursory when the overriding vision is still one of impossibly thin women parading up and down a runway – albeit a runway that now snakes around a Brutalist building in Barcelona as opposed to a swanky New York City hotel. The outfits too, are more arty, less skimpy this time around and mercifully there hasn’t been the usual media battery of stories on extreme exercise and diet in the run-up – but that doesn’t mean those practices have ended altogether. “We haven’t forgotten our past, but we’re also speaking to the present,” the brand’s chief creative director Raul Martinez said before the film’s launch. In an era when more inclusive, dynamic lingerie labels, like Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty, reign supreme, the VS show can’t help but seem like a relic. And as long as its legacy of impossible body standards lives on for many of us, any attempts to dress the spectacle up as empowering feel very hollow indeed. Read More Naomi Campbell and Gigi Hadid lead first Victoria’s Secret runway show in five years Victoria's Secret overhauls its racy fashion catwalk in its latest moves to be more inclusive Chioma Nnadi at Vogue: All hail the era of the Black female fashion editor Naomi Campbell and Gigi Hadid lead first Victoria’s Secret runway show in five years Kim Kardashian debuts buzz cut and thin eyebrows for new photo shoot Travis Kelce wears ‘1989’ inspired outfit after leaving NFL game with Taylor Swift

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As much as a beach day sounds idyllic, in reality, the whole excursion is a production. Whether you are taking a day trip from the city to the coast or partaking in a waterfront Airbnb weekend, these seasonal affairs can go from lounging in chic straw hats and trendy sunglasses to realizing you forgot to pack sunscreen products or a reusable water bottle. To save you from collapsing under the weight of your (once again overloaded) tote bag, we streamlined the beach accessories that are worth buying and packing.

New York City and large parts of the tri-state area have been placed under Code Red air quality alerts as smoke from wildfires in Canada continue to create hazy skies. The city is currently ranked fifth for the worst air quality in the world, following Toronto, Hanoi, Dhaka and New Delhi, as the Air Quality Index on Wednesday reached “unhealthy” levels across New York and other major US cities. The poor air quality is a result of more than 400 wildfires raging in Canada, leading to mass evacuations in the province of Quebec. Meanwhile, schools in New York City and Washington DC have cancelled outdoor activities such as recess and gym. As the wildfires continue to rage on, air quality in New York is expected to get worse later Wednesday afternoon, according to forecasters. But amidst an ongoing climate crisis, many climate scientists warn that wildfires could become more frequent and intense. Many officials have urged people to limit their time outdoors and wear masks to protect themselves from the smoke. In fact, wildfire smoke carries a number of pollutants that can pose a number of risks and hazardous effects. Here’s a list of dos and don’ts to help keep yourself safe during the Code Red air quality alert. Wear a mask If the Covid-19 taught us anything, it’s that masks help keep us safe from getting sick. The same goes for wildfire smoke. Masks can protect you from deadly air pollutants found in wildfire smoke such as fine particulate matter, also known as PM 2.5. But not all masks are created equal. While surgical masks work fine in protecting your lungs from the smoke, the most preferred method of protection are N95 or KN95 masks. Both N95 and KN95 masks work by fitting tightly to the face and filtering air using multiple layers of material, which are designed to trap extremely small particles. Stay indoors, or take precaution if you need to go outside New York City Mayor Eric Adams told New Yorkers in a statement to “limit outdoor activity to the greatest extent possible.” In addition to masking up, people should also avoid performing strenuous activities outside – such as exercising or biking – and change their clothes once they return home. Air purifiers vs air conditioners Outdoor air, including fine particles from wildfire smoke, can also enter your home through open windows, vents, or window air conditioning units. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends using a portable air purifier to help improve indoor air quality. Indoor fans can also be used to help circulate air. The EPA also states that central AC systems, in which air is cooled and distributed through ducts, are safe to use during air quality alerts. “If you have an HVAC system with a fresh air intake, set the system to recirculate mode, or close the outdoor intake damper,” the agency said. As for window AC units, the EPA warns against running the portable AC during “smoky conditions because it can result in more smoke being brought inside.” Take steps to save energy and reduce pollution New Yorkers are encouraged to avoid activities that could create more fine particles indoors, such as smoking cigarettes; spraying aerosol products; using gas, propane or wood-burning stoves and furnaces; frying or broiling food; and burning candles or incense. The New York State Department of Environmental Conservation also recommends closing the blinds or shades to preserve cooled air, and limiting use of household appliances. Follow for live air quality alert updates. Read More Air quality – live: New York under Code Red alert and kids banned from outside play over Canada wildfire smoke Wildfire smoke tracker: Where the air pollution is headed next NYC and DC public schools cancel outdoor activities as wildfire smoke plagues East Coast As Pride Month begins: 5 LGBTQ+ icons who have helped shape pop culture and history Al Pacino, 83, expecting his fourth child with 29-year-old girlfriend Pest control expert weighs in on viral blue sofa debate

It’s shaping up to be a wild summer (astrologically speaking) because there’s about to be seven — yes, seven —planets in retrograde. Although the chaos up in outer space may seem far, far away, it always comes back down to haunt — er, I mean help — us. On July 17, we’ll be experiencing another happening up in the sky that you’ll want to prepare for, and that’s the new moon in Cancer.

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