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Best hotels in Scotland 2023: Where to stay for the ultimate escape
Gone are the days of fusty, old-school Scottish hotels. Today, Scotland offers a wealth of welcoming hotel options to suit all tastes, types and budgets. The classic old-world luxury dames still proudly proffer their history in the glens and overlooking the lochs, with many back at their best in recent years, thanks to some serious investment. They’ve been joined by a new wave of boutique accommodations, where tartan twee is eschewed for cutting-edge design and the work of local artists and craftspeople. Scotland’s eight cities all boast a dizzying array of options, with real choice, too, out in the Highlands and on the islands. Whether you’re looking for a romantic getaway for two, a life-affirming family break packed with action, or a chilled escape with old pals, you’ll find it north of Hadrian’s Wall in a country where jaw-dropping scenery comes as standard. Scottish hospitality has moved up a notch as customers’ expectations rise ever higher, and, when it comes to picking a place to stay, we’ve rounded up the best of the best. The best hotels in Scotland 2023 are: Best luxury hotel: The Balmoral Best hotel for couples: Orocco Pier Best budget hotel: Clayton Hotel Glasgow City Best city break hotel: Malmaison Aberdeen Best hotel for walkers: The Torridon Best boutique hotel: Hotel Indigo Dundee Best hotel for scenic views: Trump Turnberry Best hotel for foodies: Kinloch Lodge Best spa hotel: Cameron House Best family hotel: Gleneagles Best hotels in Edinburgh Best luxury hotel: The Balmoral Neighbourhood: Edinburgh This quintessential Edinburgh hotel has proudly stood at No.1 Princes Street since 1902. Rocco Forte’s flagship city hotel is constantly being tweaked to stay ahead. Book a room with a castle view or the room where JK Rowling completed her Harry Potter saga – all rooms have the same classically luxurious, calm vibe. A basement spa with the Irene Forte Skincare range tempts, along with the pool. Delve below street level too for Number One, which has cherished a well-deserved Michelin star for more than two decades. It still does a proper Scotch beef steak if you don’t want to experiment with the modern Scottish creations. Expand your whisky horizons at SCOTCH whisky bar with its 500 whiskies, or savour afternoon tea beneath a Venetian chandelier, accompanied by the soothing sounds of the harp in Palm Court. Book now Best hotel for couples: Orocco Pier Neighbourhood: Edinburgh The seaside suburb of South Queensferry is a favourite of Edinburghers during weekends. Enjoy the day-trip delights of the cobbled high street’s shops, a boat trip on Maid of the Forth out to the wee island of Inchcolm and – best of all – the epic views of the world-famous Forth Bridge. When the day trippers leave, linger at Orocco Pier, a smart 17-room boutique bolthole on the waterfront. Book a room with a view of the bridge, savour a sundowner in the Antico Bar, feast on a seafood platter for two in the revamped Samphire Restaurant and enjoy a moonlit stroll with the bridge as a seriously romantic backdrop. Best hotels in Glasgow Best budget hotel: Clayton Hotel Glasgow City Neighbourhood: Glasgow Forget the privations of hostel rooms or faceless budget chains; instead, recline in the deeply historic old Grade A-listed customs house right on the River Clyde in the heart of Glasgow. This is a 303-room, four-star hotel at three-star prices. Rooms are comfortable rather than luxurious, but spacious with comfy King Koil mattresses. Book a riverside room for views over the Clyde and towards the city’s Southside. The Custom House Bar & Restaurant is worth staying in for too – savour the signature Glaswegin cocktails at the swish bar before tucking into steaks and international comfort food. Best hotels in Aberdeen Best city break hotel: Malmaison Aberdeen Neighbourhood: Aberdeen Aberdeen has its fair share of characterless hotels catering for its lifeblood fossil fuel industries, but the Malmaison’s offering is the finest of the boutique chain in Scotland. Housed in a grand grey granite building (Aberdeen is known as the Granite City), this 79-room hotel is ideally located for exploring the rapidly changing city. Stroll to the revamped Aberdeen Art Gallery and the new City Gardens; later watch the dolphins at Torry Battery. The city’s boisterous pubs and clubs buzz all around, with plenty of eating out options nearby. The hotel’s wine list is impressive, while Chez Mal serves spot-on steaks cooked on a Josper grill. Best hotels in the Scottish Highlands Best hotel for walkers: The Torridon Neighbourhood: Wester Ross Daniel and Rohaise Rose-Bristow are legends of the Scottish hotel scene, seamlessly steering this Wester Ross escape for more than two decades. You could just sip whisky watching the Highland cows and the mist over Loch Torridon, but many come here to hike. The epic Torridon Mountains soar up over a kilometre high, offering life-affirming challenges. A comparatively easy option for experienced hikers is 903m-high Beinn Damh – yomp up straight from the hotel. Even gentler is a rare – for Scotland – waymarked mountain trail at Beinn Eighe, offering a taste of the mountains to less-experienced hikers. The hotel’s Torridon Outdoors team can lead the way. Stay in the plush main hotel or more hiker-friendly inn-style Stables. Book now Best Isle of Skye hotels Best hotel for foodies: Kinloch Lodge Neighbourhood: Isle of Skye Dining at whitewashed Kinloch Lodge, you’ll question the judgement of the Michelin inspectors who stole a well-deserved star a few years ago from this 17th-century hunting lodge run for five decades by the legendary foodie family the MacDonalds. Passion, authenticity and sound local produce ripple through this foodie hideaway, gloriously set on its own sea loch. Spend the morning foraging for wild herbs and chanterelles with the Skye Ghillie, then tuck into creative fine dining from head chef Jordan Webb. Kick off with Lochalsh crab toast rarebit, pickled cucumber and lemon gel; followed by Skye roe deer with turnip, and leek, spiced with a Kinloch wood-foraged bramble jus. Divine. Best hotels in Dundee Best boutique hotel: Hotel Indigo Dundee Neighbourhood: Dundee Dundee is a designated Unesco City of Design and is arguably the most dynamic Scottish city of this millennium – home to the first V&A design museum outside London, which is the centrepiece of the multi-million pound waterfront regeneration. The Hotel Indigo is symbolic of Dundee’s transformation – a boutique 120-room oasis brilliantly reborn from one of the old jute mills that used to power Dundee. Antique furnishings weave together with bright colours and striking fabrics – the latter the work of artist alumni from the city’s Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art & Design. Best hotels in Ayrshire Best hotel for scenic views: Trump Turnberry Neighbourhood: Ayrshire Whatever you think of its owner, the views at this unique 92-bedroom resort are impossible to argue with. This prime strip of Ayrshire coastline, site of Robert the Bruce’s ancestral castle, peers out across the Firth of Clyde towards the glowering Alpine-esque peaks of the Isle of Arran, with the hulking gannet-dotted rock granite rock sentinel of Ailsa Craig blinking back too. As the sun melts into the cobalt waters, the Turnberry Lighthouse kicks into action. Play a round on the famous golf courses to really make the most of the views, or just recline in one of the plush bars and restaurants in a window seat. Horse riding and hiking also reveal spirit-soaring views. Best hotels in Loch Lomond Best spa hotel: Cameron House Neighbourhood: Loch Lomond Set on the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, this resort retreat is naturally relaxing with water, forests and hills everywhere you look. There is a swimming pool complex at the main hotel but, if you really want to chill, take the shuttle bus just up the road to the Cameron Spa. The outdoor infinity pool at this adults-only escape peers over the island-studded loch; inside, the 20m ‘tranquillity pool’ sports a hot tub with other thermal treats as part of the Hydro & Thermal Experience. Spa and beauty treatments use ESPA and Made for Life Organics products. The ‘Couples Suite’ is the setting for sheer decadence for two. Best hotels in Perthshire Best family hotel: Gleneagles Neighbourhood: Perthshire It’s hard to think of a resort anywhere in the UK better set up for families than this glorious historic offering, which opened in 1924. They provide world-class kids’ clubs, a swimming pool with a bubbling outdoor section that delights wee ones, and all the usual child-distracting, parent-pleasing activities. Swirled in, too, is the chance for kids to help train a gun dog, have a bird of prey swoop in to literally eat out of their hands, shoot some arrows or drive a mini Land Rover. The hotel restaurants excel too, as adept at catering to babies as they are to teens. And then there are the world-renowned golf courses. Read more of our Scotland hotel reviews: Best Scottish highlands hotels Best dog-friendly Scotland hotels Best Scotland spa hotels Read more about Scotland travel: Best luxury hotels in Scotland Best boutique hotels in Edinburgh Best cheap hotels in Edinburgh Read More Best Norfolk hotels 2023: Where to stay for food, luxury and beach walks Best family-friendly Cornwall hotels for a fun 2023 holiday Best hotels in Brighton 2023: Where to stay for a unique seaside escape Eight of the best self-catering holiday homes to stay at in the UK Eight best solo holiday destinations in the UK for a singles getaway Scotland country guide: Everything you need to know before you go
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Is bottomless prosecco going to be killed off by climate change?
Picture this. The group chat has finally settled on a date and we are going out. Out out. Women of most ages know how serious this is. There was probably a spreadsheet involved. Boyfriends and husbands have been dispatched to the pub. Children and dogs have been dropped off at the sitter. Dignity has been left at the door. One of us is waiting for it to be cancelled so we can stay at home with our loungewear and girl dinners (it’s probably me). There’s only one thing for it. Bottomless brunch. Many Asos orders and outfit changes later, we arrive, take our seats and start the binge drinking timer. There’s only one problem. No prosecco. Freshly manicured fists pound the table. The elected Karen of the group starts to verbally pulverise the staff. Eggs Benedicts are thrown against the walls. The Prosecco Huns exclaim in unison: “But what are we going to drink now?!” The waiter bashfully suggests: “Spumante?” Give over. According to a new study, this could be a reality in the near future thanks to climate change threatening vineyards across Europe, in particular those dedicated to glera (the beloved prosecco grape) in Northern Italy. In a detailed report in iScience last month, researchers warned that unpredictable weather, soil degradation and drought could lead to the loss of a millennia-old winemaking tradition, and the livelihoods attached to it. RIP the Prosecco Hun. The Italian sparkling wine has long been the fizz of choice in the UK (we were only dethroned as the world’s biggest prosecco guzzlers last year by the US). In the early 2010s, more than a third of all the prosecco shipped out of Italy worldwide ended up in Britain – approximately 131 million bottles a year. That’s nearly two bottles per Brit. You get the idea. The origin of our obsession with prosecco dates back to just after the 2008 crash, when consumers were looking for an alternative to expensive champagne. The softer tasting, far more affordable (thanks to its cheaper and speedier production time) and incredibly quaffable prosecco was the obvious choice. Bottomless brunch was born. “My heart goes out to the huns whose weekends simply aren’t complete without a bottle of prosecco,” Hannah Crosbie, founder of Dalston Wine Club, laments at the news that just 15 years after it stormed onto supermarket shelves, prosecco might be quietly forced to say arrivederci. “In all seriousness though, climate change is seriously threatening every aspect of winemaking, and growing conditions are only getting more challenging.” Prosecco is certainly not the only vino at risk, but it faces a unique issue. Where other wine growing regions affected by climate change such as Champagne and Burgundy can simply put out a limited run with an inflated price tag and keep the snobby oenophiles coming, prosecco’s USP is its ability to produce in bulk and at a fraction of the cost. English sparkling is a big winner with the climate going the way it is. Prosecco, by all accounts, seems like it’s a bit of a loser in that regard Will Amherst, head wine buyer at Trullo Ali Finch, group sommelier at Angela Hartnett’s Michelin-starred Italian restaurant Murano in Mayfair, doesn’t believe there’s an appetite for a higher quality, more expensive prosecco. “With the impact of the climate as well as the cost of producing wine increasing, the challenge for prosecco is going to be how to balance the expectation of its price point with the need to make slightly smaller quantities,” she tells me. “Regions like Chablis, for instance, have had multiple horrible vintages back to back and people just accept the fact they have to pay more for it if they want to drink that wine.” For the uninitiated, the word “vintage” on a wine label simply means the year the grapes were harvested – compared to regular wines that may include grapes harvested in multiple years – and each vintage can taste vastly different based on the conditions affecting the grapes in that year. Chablis, produced from chardonnay grapes in the northernmost district of Burgundy, has always been particularly affected by the climate due to its geography, but in recent years has seen frost in 2016, 2017 and 2021, and drought and higher temperatures in 2019 and 2020. This has dramatically affected those vintages, and driven up the price of bottles from “good” years. But with prosecco, “people potentially wouldn’t be interested in” paying a higher price, Finch says. This is partly because its brand has become more associated with cheap fizz than fine wine in Britain. Part of the problem also lies in the simplicity of its production. Prosecco is a wine that reflects the aromatics of the grape at the point of harvest, whereas with other sparkling wines like champagne, as well as other types of wine in general, such as chablis, it’s about the ageing process. Rising temperatures mean grapes are ripening more quickly, which can result in a different flavour of wine or too much alcohol, so one option is to harvest the grapes earlier. You can get away with a slightly under-ripe fruit in aged wines as so much of the flavour is added during their long fermentations. In prosecco, a bottle of which is ready in just 30 days, an under-ripe grape could result in something that “tastes a lot like battery acid”, according to Finch. The Prosecco Huns don’t want to chug something flavourless and eye-wateringly alcoholic with their eggs Benedict. “If you pick too early, you’ve got no flavour,” Finch explains. “So they don’t really have the option to just keep making it in the same volume. With other wines, you can do more work in the winery to make the wine feel more balanced and more approachable and more complex. They don’t have that luxury in prosecco.” Under Italy’s DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) laws, prosecco is only prosecco when it comes from just two regions of the country, Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and adheres to strict growing and production rules. The same goes for champagne: only wine produced from eight permitted varieties of grape grown exclusively in the Champagne region of France may be called champagne. It’s these “heroic viticulture” sites that the report says are most at risk. Naming rights have been a point of contention across the whole wine industry for some time, with Australian producers of glera recently putting in a request to the EU to be allowed to call their wine prosecco on the grounds that it’s part of their migrant and cultural identity. Ironically, the glera grape is actually believed to be Slovenian in origin, and was first cultivated in the vineyards of Prosecco, a small village in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region near the border with Slovenia. The name is even thought to derive from the Slovenian words preseka or poseka, or the Serbian/Croatian prosek, meaning “path cut through the woods”. While DOC laws might prevent anyone calling a sparkling wine made from glera grapes outside of the designated regions a prosecco, it hasn’t stopped winemakers around the world from essentially producing the same wine using the same techniques. As climate change has made it increasingly difficult to cultivate the grapes in their historical home, it’s also made conditions in more northern regions like the UK more favourable for the growing of certain grapes, including white varieties such as glera, opening the door to a whole new generation of winemakers. “This is not me saying this is the death of prosecco,” Finch adds quickly, but she stresses that the wine industry is naturally very dynamic. “There are loads of alternatives to prosecco, both within Europe in terms of pet nats and cremants and things like that, and with the New World as well.” Pet nats – sparkling wines made using the “traditional method” of fermenting in individual bottles – have become very trendy among the younger Gen Z crowd, she says, as it still offers something bright, fruity and super fizzy, but without the faff, or price tag, that comes with champagne. People are also drinking less but are happy to spend a little more and not drink as much. At Murano, Finch says diners are asking about English sparkling wines more than ever before. “The correlation, obviously, with post-Brexit is there. There’s a desire to try and drink more local wines, potentially from a sustainability point of view, potentially from a cost-to-quality point of view because of duty increasing. It’s also partly because during Covid people did a lot of staycations and UK wine tourism did very well during that time. And it sort of stuck.” It’s a sentiment echoed by Will Amherst, head wine buyer at Italian trattoria Trullo in Islington, north London. “I don’t want to bash prosecco too much, but if I was going out and I wanted sparkling wine, I would still look at champagne,” he says, much to the chagrin of the Prosecco Huns. “And if I’m going to look somewhere other than that, I would get a bottle of English sparkling. Because English sparkling is a big winner with the climate going the way it is. Prosecco, by all accounts, seems like it’s a bit of a loser in that regard.” Prosecco and the people that produce it are certainly not the only losers but its high-altitude, cooler temperature geography, which previously protected it from climate change, is now adversely affected by extreme weather. Sudden, intense rainfall damages the soil and creates “slope failures”, while conversely droughts make irrigation extremely difficult. While he’s yet to see a knock-on effect on prosecco supplies at Trullo, Amherst’s “immediate thoughts were, really sadly: is prosecco going to be able to pull itself out of that hole? I don’t know how you reconcile the spiralling production costs and the brand identity, which is synonymous with cheap wine in this country,” he says. Although it’s not recommended to keep prosecco longer than two to three years before it goes flat – compared to up to 10 years for vintage champagnes – he doesn’t anticipate stocks to run down soon. At any rate, his biggest use for prosecco at Trullo is in an Aperol Spritz, where it makes up half the drink. He actually sees it as an exciting opportunity for new wines to emerge. So does Will Hill, a wine buyer at online merchant Honest Grapes, who tells me: “Once again, cava is showing that there is great value to be found in traditional method sparkling wines and more and more we are seeing ‘prosecco-esque’ wines for lower prices. If the consumer isn’t tied to the name ‘prosecco’, there are plenty of good, affordable, entry-level options available.” It’s clear that wines of all colours are facing an uphill battle (quite literally in prosecco’s case), not just to survive but to protect their identity, which for prosecco is arguably more important. That could spell the end of the Prosecco Hun, but with English sparkling and other European varieties on the rise, perhaps it just means a rebranding is in order. Cremant Crew? Pet Nat Posse? 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Judy Murray: More needs to be done to protect athletes from abuses of power
More needs to be done to protect sportswomen from the abuse of power from coaches and other key figures in their professional life, Judy Murray has said. While the tennis coach, and mother of Wimbledon stars Andy and Jamie Murray, welcomed measures taken within the Women’s Tennis Association (WTA) – which recently appointed a director of safeguarding in an increased effort to protect professional athletes from predatory coaches – she said further action is needed in the industry as a whole. “I think it’s up to all of the individual governing bodies to have someone in that head of safeguarding role that, whether you’re a coach, a parent, a player or in sports science, when you see something or if something happens to you, you know that that’s the group you go to, that’s the person you speak to, it will be treated in confidence but there will be action taken from it,” Murray told PA Media. “I think we’ve all seen a lot of brushing under the carpet over the years. And often you don’t know who to go to, and even if you do go to someone, you’re concerned: ‘Is it going to affect my selection for the team or my funding?’” The former Scottish No 1 player and long-time coach, 63, was speaking while promoting her debut novel, The Wild Card. The book centres on a fictional professional tennis player, who is manipulated by her coach during her earlier career as a 17-year-old into a sexual relationship, fearing that he will ditch her if she doesn’t comply. “For me, having been round the women’s tour, it’s a very male-dominated domain in terms of the coaches and you realise that the young players in particular, they’re travelling all the time, they’re away from home, the coach becomes a crutch, not just a coach. You actually assume a parent role, a friend role,” Murray added. “It’s very easy for players to become dependent on coaches, and fall into something that they don’t really understand and feel they can’t get out of.” She said she welcomed the wider awareness created by athletes who have come forward about their own experiences, citing the case of multiple Olympic gold medal-winning US gymnast Simone Biles, one of many women sexually abused by former team doctor Larry Nassar (who was subsequently jailed for 40-plus years). “Over the last few years, we’ve seen examples in several sports of players/performers telling about what’s happened to them in terms of abuse of trust and abuse of power, none more so than Simone Biles and other gymnasts with the US doctor, which went on for years,” said Murray. “It [the US gymnasts’ case] encouraged more people to speak out, and highlights the need for ensuring that those in positions of power within sport are suitably qualified, vetted and insured, and also that somebody is accountable to somebody else. “It makes such a big impact when top athletes like Simone Biles speak out about what’s happened to them,” Murray continued. “And it gives confidence to others to come out and talk and to share, and it is about raising awareness. “But at the end of the day, you can raise awareness, but you need somebody to act on that. And that is starting to happen, but it’s probably still in its relative infancy.” The Wild Card by Judy Murray is published by Orion, priced £14.99. Available now. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live Nearly half UK adults believe LGBTQ+ representation important in storytelling – study What to wear to Glastonbury this year 11 ways to work white into your interiors
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