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Victoria’s Secret was never feminist – why are they bothering to try now?
Victoria’s Secret was never feminist – why are they bothering to try now?
Wings! Fake tans! Low body mass indexes! For millennial women, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show was an annual reminder of the myriad ways in which we were failing to adhere to exacting and exhausting beauty standards. When it was cancelled in 2019, few mourned it. But fashion loves a comeback story, and today the company unveiled Victoria’s Secret: The Tour ’23 on Amazon Prime Video, its first televised catwalk event in five years. According to the company, the feature-length film is the “ultimate expression” of their ongoing efforts to rehabilitate a brand that has been mired in scandal. Alongside long-standing criticisms over promoting an unrealistic body image, the company’s former marketing executive Ed Razek was also accused of behaving inappropriately with models in a New York Times report (he described the allegations as “categorically untrue, misconstrued or taken out of context”) and a recent Hulu documentary Angels and Demons explored troubling links with convicted sex offender Jeffrey Epstein. “Visually, strategically, everything about it is the incarnation of where the brand is going,” Victoria’s Secret president Greg Unis has said. Instead of the usual structure, which was centred around a straightforward runway show, The Tour ’23 is roughly divided into quarters, each focusing on one of four locations: Lagos, Nigeria; Bogota, Colombia; Tokyo, Japan; London, the UK. In each city, a local designer has dreamed up their own fashion collection to be modelled by the likes of Naomi Campbell, Emily Ratajkowski, Adut Akech, and Gigi Hadid, who does double duty as the show’s narrator. In London, the chosen designer is Michaela Stark, whose corsets aim to celebrate a diverse range of body shapes, rather than constrict them. She agreed to take part in the VS show 2.0, she suggests, so that she could counteract the damaging messages put out by the original runways. “It was a big thing” when she was a teenager, she recalls, “but it was also that culture around it, of not wanting to eat after you saw it”. Her comments inadvertently raise a question that looms over the whole production: can you ever truly detoxify a brand practically built on the insecurities of a generation of women? Founded by Roy Raymond in the late Seventies, who felt awkward buying lingerie for his wife in his local department store, Victoria’s Secret began life as a women’s underwear shop aimed specifically at men. In 1982, Raymond sold the business to Limited Stores founder Les Wexner for $1m; Wexner went on to transform the brand, envisaging it as a more affordable version of the fancy European label La Perla. In 1995, when the company was facing competition from Wonderbra, the first Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show took place at the Plaza Hotel in New York City. It proved successful enough to become an annual event. In 1999, the show was streamed on the internet for the first time, prompting the website to crash as 1.5 million users tried to tune in. Two years later, the VS show celebrated its inaugural TV broadcast, during which the National Organisation for Women (NOW) protested outside a New York branch of the shop. “Some people are terribly blase about this, that this is not a big deal, that we ought to be used to this kind of daily sexuality,” Sonia Ossorio, NOW’s vice president for public information, said at the time. “But I think we need to keep questioning the ever-extending sexualisation of women in mass media.” The following year, NOW branded the event a “softcore porn infomercial”. By then, the blueprint for future VS shows had been set. A lineup of models would don bras encrusted with millions of pounds worth of jewels and embarrassingly themed lingerie (never forget Cara Delevingne’s god-awful outfit circa 2013: a sort of miniature shell suit likely pitched in the boardroom as “sexy football fan”). Somewhere between the models, a famous singer would pop in for a brief performance; if they were a woman, they’d be decked out in a VS creation of their own (Taylor Swift got a particularly raw deal in 2013, too, when she had to wear a Union Jack-inspired number, complete with a tiny red, white and blue top hat). This glittering, over-the-top spectacle, much closer to a beauty pageant than a Fashion Week presentation, spotlighted the world’s most beautiful women – who were not just genetically blessed but worked hard, too, we were told ad nauseam. They had been preparing for the show like endurance athletes, sticking to carefully tailored diets and intense workout schedules. These wing-wearing “Angels” were selling a dream, one that we lesser mortals could supposedly buy into by picking up some synthetic underwear at our nearest Victoria’s Secret branch. But it was their painstaking fitness regimens, not the pants they were wearing, that were the real focus of fascination. In endless interviews, the models were asked to detail exactly how they whittled themselves down to “Victoria’s Secret ready” size – so that we could try and copy them. To combat the criticisms of objectification, the brand relied on its models to pay lip service to just how “empowering” the whole circus was, offering up their take on choice feminism. “There’s something really powerful about a woman who owns her sexuality and is in charge” – model Karlie Kloss was peddling this line to the media as late as 2018. “A show like this celebrates that and allows all of us to be the best versions of ourselves. Whether it’s wearing heels, make-up or a beautiful piece of lingerie – if you are in control and empowered by yourself, it’s sexy.” Naturally, it was very convenient that this “best version of ourselves” aligned with the oppressively narrow conventional standard of sexiness Victoria’s Secret was selling. By the late 2010s, though, as the fashion industry began to (slowly) address its diversity problem, Victoria’s Secret started to seem more and more like an anachronism. As other brands took small steps to spotlight plus-size models on their catwalks and in their advertising campaigns, the VS show remained the preserve of the extremely thin. They had been preparing for the show like endurance athletes, sticking to carefully tailored diets and intense workout schedules Placing white models in culturally insensitive outfits (see: Kloss walking down the runway wearing a Native American-inspired headdress) only added to the glaring PR problem, which was later exacerbated when the brand’s marketing boss Ed Razek made controversial comments about transgender people and plus-size models to Vogue in 2018. “It’s like, why doesn’t your show do this? Shouldn’t you have transsexuals in your show?” he said, apparently recalling questions from critics. “No. No, I don’t think we should. Well, why not? Because the show is a fantasy.” Elsewhere, he claimed “no one had any interest” in seeing bigger bodies on the VS catwalk. Razek later apologised, admitting that his “remark regarding the inclusion of transgender models in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show came across as insensitive”. His comments about plus-size bodies went unaddressed. In 2019, against a backdrop of plummeting TV ratings and declining sales, the brand confirmed that the VS show had been cancelled; instead, they said, the company would focus on “evolving” their marketing. The news came just a few months after the revelation that Jeffrey Epstein had provided financial advice to Victoria’s Secret founder Wexner – and had exploited his personal connection to the brand as a means to lure in young women. “Being taken advantage of by someone who was so sick, so cunning, so depraved, is something that I’m embarrassed I was even close to,” Wexner said to investors. “But that is in the past.” He left the company the following year. Since then, Victoria’s Secret has made some high-profile attempts to rectify past missteps. The company brought in a majority female board of directors; they ditched the “Angels” concept in favour of the new “VS Collective” whose ranks include actor Priyanka Chopra, US football star Megan Rapinoe, and plus-size model Paloma Elsesser. Last year, an ad campaign featuring a more diverse array of women was accompanied by the slogan “we’ve changed” – supposedly into something “ever-evolving” and “real”. How much has Victoria’s Secret “changed”, really? The latest show features a handful of plus-size models, Elsesser included, but many of the old VS cohort are present and correct, including Candice Swanepoel, Lily Aldridge, and Adriana Lima. The nods to body diversity can’t help but feel a bit cursory when the overriding vision is still one of impossibly thin women parading up and down a runway – albeit a runway that now snakes around a Brutalist building in Barcelona as opposed to a swanky New York City hotel. The outfits too, are more arty, less skimpy this time around and mercifully there hasn’t been the usual media battery of stories on extreme exercise and diet in the run-up – but that doesn’t mean those practices have ended altogether. “We haven’t forgotten our past, but we’re also speaking to the present,” the brand’s chief creative director Raul Martinez said before the film’s launch. In an era when more inclusive, dynamic lingerie labels, like Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty, reign supreme, the VS show can’t help but seem like a relic. And as long as its legacy of impossible body standards lives on for many of us, any attempts to dress the spectacle up as empowering feel very hollow indeed. Read More Naomi Campbell and Gigi Hadid lead first Victoria’s Secret runway show in five years Victoria's Secret overhauls its racy fashion catwalk in its latest moves to be more inclusive Chioma Nnadi at Vogue: All hail the era of the Black female fashion editor Naomi Campbell and Gigi Hadid lead first Victoria’s Secret runway show in five years Kim Kardashian debuts buzz cut and thin eyebrows for new photo shoot Travis Kelce wears ‘1989’ inspired outfit after leaving NFL game with Taylor Swift
2023-09-27 13:45
Three tomato salad recipes that definitely aren’t boring
Three tomato salad recipes that definitely aren’t boring
Easy to make, full of fresh flavour and healthy, tomato salads are perfect whether you’re looking for a light side dish, to jazz up your packed lunch or something super simple for dinner. British Tomato Fortnight (29 May-11 June) is a great excuse to try out some of our favourite tomato salad recipes. Putting together a Buddha bowl, which is infinitely adaptable to whatever you’ve got in the fridge, is a great place to start. The one below uses whizzed up cauliflower in place of rice, for an extra health kick. The roasted tomato, asparagus and feta salad is all about quality ingredients and simplicity, which make a real feel-good dish. Lastly, combine roasted tomatoes with some of the freshest flavours of spring to make a warm salad with purple-sprouting broccoli, halloumi and anchovies. Delicious. Tomato Buddha bowl Using fresh Piccolos, we’ve created this deconstructed “fajita” Buddha bowl featuring “rice” made from whizzed up cauliflower. Delicious. Serves: 4 Ingredients: 2 red onions 2 red peppers Olive oil 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 x 400g can black beans 2 tbsp cider vinegar Generous pinch smoked paprika 1 red chilli, halved Lime juice, to taste 2 corn on the cob, halved 1 cauliflower, chopped 1 heaped tsp cumin seeds 350g Piccolo cherry tomatoes To serve: 1 avocado, sliced 4 radishes, sliced Small handful coriander leaves Lime wedges Chipotle paste (optional) Method: Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Cut the red onion into wedges and slice the red pepper into quarters. Drizzle with olive oil and roast for 30 minutes. Heat some oil in a pan and add the garlic. Fry for a few minutes over a low heat. Drain the black beans, retaining a little of the water they came in. Add the beans to the pan with the cider vinegar and smoked paprika. Add the halved chilli to the pan. Cook the beans for about 15 minutes, adding a splash of the retained can water if they start to dry out. Add a splash of lime juice at the end of the cooking time. Meanwhile, cook the corn in a pan of boiling water for about five minutes until slightly soft but not completely tender. Drain and dry the corn. Pulse the cauliflower in a food processor until it looks like grains. Dry fry the cumin seeds in a non-stick frying pan and then remove from the pan. Add a dash of oil and the cauliflower and fry until toasted. Add the cumin back to the pan. Keep warm.Heat a griddle pan and griddle the boiled corn on the cob halves until nicely charred. Set aside the corn and then char the Piccolo cherry tomatoes in the griddle pan. Serve the cauliflower in bowls, topped with the black beans. Arrange the red onions, red peppers, sliced avocado, radishes, coriander leaves, sweetcorn, lime wedges and Piccolo cherry tomatoes on top. Serve with a dash of chipotle paste if liked. Roasted tomato, asparagus, and feta salad This salad is all about quality ingredients and simplicity. Roasted Piccolo cherry tomatoes and asparagus flecked with fennel seeds, lemon zest and feta make a real feel-good dish. Serves: 2 Ingredients: 1 small bunch asparagus, trimmed 400g Piccolo cherry tomatoes, still on the vine Extra virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove, finely sliced 1 tsp fennel seeds 2 sprigs rosemary 30g feta 1 lemon, zest of 1 lemon, and dash of the juice Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Method: Preheat the oven to 190C/170C/gas 5. Place the asparagus and Piccolo cherry tomatoes on a baking tray and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Scatter over the garlic and fennel seeds. Lay the rosemary sprigs on the side. Roast for about 10 minutes, or until the asparagus is cooked through. Remove from the oven and crumble over the feta. Add the zest, lemon juice and freshly ground black pepper. Drizzle with a dash more olive oil. You may not need to season with salt as the feta will bring salt to the dish already. Warm salad of roasted tomatoes, purple-sprouting broccoli, halloumi and anchovy Combine roasted Piccolos with some of the freshest flavours of spring to make this easy salad with the addition of chopped anchovy in the dressing. Time: 45 minutes Serves: 4 Ingredients: 200g whole Piccolo cherry tomatoes, off the vine 1 whole garlic bulb 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Few sprigs thyme 250g new potatoes, or ideally Jersey Royal, halved 250g block halloumi, sliced 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar 4 anchovies, finely chopped 200g purple-sprouting broccoli, broken into small florets Small bunch fresh mint, chopped Freshly ground black pepper Method: Heat the oven to 170C fan/gas 3 (fan). Put the Piccolo cherry tomatoes in a roasting tin, break the garlic bulb up into cloves and drizzle with a tablespoon of olive oil. Nestle the thyme sprigs in with the tomatoes and roast for 20 minutes. Drain off the liquid to set aside for the dressing. Once cool enough to handle, pop the garlic out of each clove and set aside. Boil the potatoes in a pan of boiling salted water for about 15 minutes, or until cooked through - this will depend on the size of the potatoes. Heat a griddle to hot and griddle the sliced halloumi until nicely browned and cooked through. For the dressing, measure out 2 tablespoons of the reserved Piccolo cooking liquid into a small bowl, add the two tablespoons of vinegar, four tablespoons of olive oil and the chopped anchovies. Whisk together. Heat another tablespoon of oil in a pan or wok and add the broccoli. Cook for a minute, then tip in the drained potatoes, once they are covered in the oil, add the tomatoes and garlic to the pan and stir. Remove from the heat. Arrange the warm salad on four plates, top with the halloumi and pour over the dressing. Finish with a little freshly ground black pepper and the chopped mint. Serve warm. Learn more about British Tomato Fortnight at britishtomatoes.co.uk/british-tomato-fortnight Read More These recipes will keep you hydrated on hot days Try one of these pasta recipes this British Tomato Fortnight Uncorked: How do I keep my wine cool at a picnic? Banging brunch recipes worth getting out of bed for Think pink: Three ways with rhubarb to make the most of the season ‘Indian food is so much more than rubbish chicken tikka masala’
2023-05-30 21:57
Gamer finds indent in head from prolonged headset use after shaving his hair
Gamer finds indent in head from prolonged headset use after shaving his hair
A Twitch streamer was left stunned after he livestreamed himself shaving his hair for charity, only to find an indent on his head from wearing his gaming headset. The gamer, who goes by Curtoss on streaming platform Twitch, went live on 3 June to raise money for the charity organisation, Leukemia & Lymphoma Society. While shaving his head for charity, viewers witnessed Curtoss’s shock when he discovered that his head shape had completely changed due to his prolonged headset use. “The shaver’s working like a champ,” Curtoss said, as he began shaving his hair down the middle of his head. Within seconds, he noticed an indent across the top of his head. “Dude, I have an indent like right here, this is where my headphones go!” he told viewers. “I have a f***ing headphone indent on my head! What the f***?” “I always thought that was just my hair,” he added. It didn’t take long for Curtoss’s reaction to go viral on social media. He shared a clip of his mid-shave discovery to his TikTok, while on Twitter, a video of his head indent received more than 42 million views. Surprisingly, Curtoss wasn’t the only one to find an indent on their head from wearing headphones. “Welcome to the club,” replied one Twitter user, who shared photos of two gamers with indents on their skulls. “We all got one of those at one point or another,” another gamer joked. “Tell me why I’ve just rubbed my head to make sure I don’t have one,” shared one person, while another wrote: “New fear just unlocked” “This is why I will never wear a headset for prolonged time periods,” said someone else. So, can prolonged headphones really cause permanent damage? Yes and no. While there are risks to wearing headphones for long periods of time, head indents are temporary. In fact, Headphonesty reports that it takes at least 135 kg to cause a minor fracture to the skull. However, streamers can get “headphone hair” from wearing a headphone headband for too long, wherein the headset puts too much pressure on the head and flattens the hair. But much like indents on the scalp, hair should gradually return to its original shape in just a few minutes. In order to help get rid of headphone dents on the scalp or hair faster, gamers can gently massage the dent and the surrounding area. A hot shower might help return the head to its original shape, but taking breaks from wearing headphones is the most effective way to avoid causing a dent in the scalp. @curtoss please don't call it "Brain Valley" ?♂️ #twitch #livestreamfails #gamer ♬ original sound - nintendo loser While gamers and Twitch streamers don’t need to worry about changing the shape of their head, prolonged headphone use can lead to permanent hearing loss. The World Health Organization (WHO) estimates that around 50 per cent of people ages 12 to 35 are at risk of hearing loss due to prolonged and excessive exposure to loud sounds, including through headphones. According to the American Osteopathic Association, many headphones and MP3 players today can produce sounds up to 120 decibels, which is equivalent to a sound level at a rock concert. At 120 decibels, hearing loss can occur after only about an hour and 15 minutes. Experts suggest that people should exceed no more than 60 per cent of maximum volume when using headphones. The Independent has contacted Curtoss for comment. Read More Ukrainian schoolboy to buy home for his mother after selling Minecraft server Male characters in video games have 50 per cent more dialogue than female counterparts What is Discord, the chatting app tied to classified leaks? Mother sparks debate over parent who wouldn’t give her daughter a slice of cake How to protect pets from wildfire smoke amid air quality alert ‘Fearful’ Shannen Doherty reveals her cancer has spread to her brain
2023-06-08 06:59
Best gay dating apps for hookups, relationships, and everything in between
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The Best Waterproof Cameras for 2023
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Europe Luxury Stocks Slide as Richemont Chairman Says Inflation Is Denting Demand
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Luxury-goods stocks slumped in Europe after Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert said inflation is starting to dent demand across
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What Is DLSS? Demystifying Nvidia's Deep Learning Supersampling Technology
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Google Pixel 8 price is up from last year, according to leaks
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Kelly Brook: 'The less I do to my skin, the better it looks'
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Alix Earle: TikTok's GRWM queen opens up to fans about her life in Miami
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New Zealand: Plate-sized surgical tool left in woman's abdomen for 18 months
New Zealand: Plate-sized surgical tool left in woman's abdomen for 18 months
The plastic instrument was left in the woman during her C-section delivery at an Auckland hospital.
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Kimberly Palmer: How to make summer camp more affordable
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While summer camp costs are rising, parents can find deals by booking sessions early, asking about financial aid, and leveraging sibling and other discounts
2023-05-08 22:18