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From Tesco to Starbucks: The Independent high street Christmas sandwich and drink taste test
With the end of the year almost upon us and before you whip out the advent calendars and dress up the tree, it’s time to answer an all-important question: which Christmas sandwich and drink is best? Every year, supermarket stalwarts like Tesco, Waitrose and Co-op elevate their selections, resurrecting old favourites and introducing new flavour combinations to add a dash of joy to the winter gloom. Meanwhile, treasured working lunch spots like Starbucks and Caffe Nero put forth their best concoctions to keep you in the festive spirit until the holidays. But no one enjoys a sad sandwich or a cold coffee so we’ve done the hard work for you: by taste testing a selection of this year’s Christmas sandwiches and drinks and ranking them out of five. We’ve roped in some of the most discerning palates from The Independent office: editor Geordie Greig, food and drink editor Hannah Twiggs, video producer Harry Pagés and Culture and Lifestyle reporter Maanya Sachdeva. See our live reactions in the video, read our verdicts below and keep checking back as we try as many sandwiches and drinks as is physically possible before Christmas arrives. Sandwiches Co-op’s Christmas Market Sandwich Average rating: 3.75 The Co-op’s Christmas Market Sandwich made its mark with a combination of fried and sliced pork sausage, curry-seasoned cheddar cheese, mayo, cabbage, spinach, gherkins, mustard and black pepper, all nestled between slices of dark rye bread. The panel was mostly impressed. Geordie, with an generous 4, praised the sandwich’s size, appearance and flavours. He found it spicy, wholesome and very filling, and would come back for seconds. Maanya, also giving it a 4, declared this sandwich her favourite. She appreciated the healthier feel with the inclusion of more vegetables than the others and an interesting flavour. She, too, wanted more. Hannah, with a conservative 3.5, said: “This is a good looking sandwich.” While she said it didn’t feel particularly Christmassy, she found the pickle punch from the cabbage and gherkins and the curry-spiked cheese a welcome addition. Harry, initially sceptical, surprised himself by giving it a 3.5. If this is what a Christmas market tastes like, it tastes pretty good. Subway’s V.I.Brie SubMelt Average rating: 3.5 Verdict: The panel’s reactions to Subway’s newest melt, available for a limited time only, were as diverse as the ingredients themselves. Geordie, with an enthusiastic 4.5, described the sub as huge, enticing and delicious. He was impressed by the right balance of fillings and the warmth of the sandwich, and said: “That’s my lunch sorted.” Hannah, a self-declared “cheese fiend”, gave it a more reserved rating of 3, finding that the bacon and cheese didn’t shine as expected and there was an overwhelming amount of caramelised red onion. Maanya, rating it a 3.5, drew a comparison with Starbucks’ entry, noting that the Subway creation was sweeter and felt more decadent. A fan of Subway sandwiches in general, she appreciated this melt’s Christmassy flavour. Harry, coming in at 3 out of 5, thought that the “big boy’s” size alone made it good value for money. “You could knock someone out with that,” he suggested, though we definitely don’t. While he enjoyed the sharp flavour and Christmas theme, he felt that the star ingredient brie was lacking in punch, leaving the name somewhat misleading. Starbucks’ Festive Feast Panini Average rating: 3 Verdict: Starbucks’ Festive Feast Panini, filled with chicken breast, mature cheddar cheese, smoky bacon, pork, bacon and caramelised onion stuffing, cranberry chutney and turkey gravy, has returned for the 2023 Christmas season but was met with mixed reviews from our panel. The sourdough ciabatta panini went down well with Geordie, who handed out a solid 4 for the sandwich’s warm embrace and crisp bread – he’d happily come back for seconds. Maanya, on the other hand, was less impressed. It was “super cheesy” but just “fine” and lacking that Christmas sandwich sparkle. Hannah had high hopes but landed at 2.5, calling it “a bit nothingy” – not a flavour fiesta but the bread was a solid plus. Panini pundit Harry gave it a 4, welcoming the good consistency, generous filling and sauce that hit all the right notes. Asda’s Festive Feast Sandwich Average rating: 2.75 Verdict: Asda’s Festive Feast Sandwich, bringing turkey breast, sausages, smoked bacon, gravy mayo, stuffing and a spread of cranberry chutney to the table, earned mixed reviews from the panel. The sarnie’s highest score was 3.5 from Geordie, who said it “fills a hole” and appreciated the bread but found it a bit too sweet for his taste. Maanya, ranking it 3 out of 5, found it vastly improved after the first bite, with the cranberry giving it a good Thanksgiving or Christmas vibe. Hannah, less than impressed with a 2.5, likened it to the “bog standard” roast dinners you get at school, and found it too heavy on the stuffing. Harry, with a 2, was charmed by its good looks but suggested the cranberry sauce might be masking some shortcomings. Despite having a lot going on, it fell short of his expectations. Waitrose’s Pigs Under Blankets Average rating: 2.5 Verdict: Despite being the sandwich that’s “so good we’ve brought it back”, with pork sausage, smoked bacon, cranberry and redcurrant chutney and mayonnaise in sliced malted bread, Waitrose’s Pigs Under Blankets fell short of our panel’s expectations. Geordie, with a rating of 3, praised its substantial and firm structure but found it a little bland, falling short of becoming his favourite filling. Maanya, more optimistic with a 3.5, expressed excitement for the “pigs under blankets” concept, appreciating its one-dimensional charm, but noting that it was a little bit messy. Perhaps not the best choice for a date. Hannah, surprisingly impressed with a 4, found the sandwich better than expected. She appreciated the flavour of the sausages and the balance of ingredients, a departure from the overwhelming nature of some Christmas sandwiches. Harry, however, with a resounding 1, declared the Waitrose entry “pretty grim”. It didn’t meet the expectations associated with Waitrose, and, in his view, even had the potential to dampen the Christmas spirit. Ouch. Tesco’s Chicken, Stuffing and Cranberry Sauce Sub Average rating: 2 Verdict: Tesco’s offering, with chicken breast, sage and onion stuffing, smoked bacon, mayonnaise and cranberry chutney, faced a tough crowd – and our panel didn’t hold back. Geordie, with a rating of 2, felt the sub had an imbalance, with too much bread and not enough filling, leaving it to fall short of the festive mark. Maanya, initially predicting a bready experience, adjusted her expectations with a 2.75. While noting the bread’s softness, she, too, couldn’t get the right bite and found it lacking in festive flair, deeming it “just a normal chicken sandwich”. Hannah, giving it a 1.5, was firmly part of the “nope” camp. The visual appeal didn’t win her over, with a critique on poor proportioning and a congealed, cold filling; nor did the overall taste experience, which she described as “just not good”. Harry, with a rating of 2, asked: what are we even doing here Tesco? The bread wins points for softness, but it sorely needs a flavour overhaul. Drinks Starbucks’ Hazelnut Crunch Hot Chocolate Rating: 4.5 Verdict: The Hazelnut Crunch Hot Chocolate is the only new addition to Starbucks’ festive drinks menu this year. With an ingredients list that includes chocolate flavoured whipped creamy, sprinkled chocolate on top and a hazelnut brittle topping, you might expect it to be too rich or too sweet. But our reviewer Harry described it as “like drinking a Kinder Bueno”. Plenty of nutty and chocolatey flavours and not too much of either. Caffe Nero’s Panettone Latte Rating: 4 Verdict: Do coffee and panettone go together? It’s not an age-old question but it is one Caffe Nero is trying to answer with their Panettone Latte. It went down well with our reviewer Maanya, who described it as “Christmas in a cup”. With cinnamon and plenty of spice, it’s instantly warming and a great addition to the seasonal offerings. Starbucks’ Eggnog Latte Rating: 3 Verdict: Starbucks’ Eggnog Latte is another festive favourite to make a return in 2023. While not an eggnog fan, our reviewer Hannah was pleasantly surprised by its aroma. It was thicker than a normal latte, and “exceptionally sweet”, but if you’d rather swerve the cinnamon and caramel that so often permeate Christmas drinks, this is a good alternative. It could do with some booze in it, though, she added. Caffe Nero’s Millionaire’s Hot Chocolate Rating: 3 Verdict: With salted caramel syrup, chocolate cream and an extra drizzle of caramel, Caffe Nero’s Millionaire’s Hot Chocolate might prove too sickly for even the sweetest of tooths. For our reviewer Hannah, the aroma and flavour didn’t quite nail the brief. It goes big on chocolate, but one too many of these and you’ll have to pay a visit to the dentist. Caffe Nero’s Florentine Mocha Rating: 2 Verdict: Speaking of unusual pairings, do florentine biscuits and mochas go together? According to our reviewer Harry, perhaps not. “That’s a pretty bog standard mocha,” he says of Caffe Nero’s Florentine Mocha. It’s not a bad drink, with salted caramel syrup, panettone syrup, whipped cream and chocolate chips, but it doesn’t feel very Christmassy. The results Of the sandwiches, Co-op’s Christmas Market Sandwich, which brought pops of colour and unusual flavours to the table, was the clear winner. The diverse ingredients tick a lot of boxes and the chunky size means you’re getting bang for you buck. In last place was Tesco’s Chicken, Stuffing and Cranberry Sauce Sub. The reviews ranged from criticising the imbalance of ingredients to a plain “nope”. The panel agreed that it just didn’t have enough festive flair. On drinks, Starbucks’ new Hazelnut Crunch Hot Chocolate was the clear winner, packing in plenty of chocolatey and nutty flavours without overdoing it. Meanwhile, Caffe Nero’s Florentine Mocha is proof that not all flavours are a match made in heaven. This one might keep the sweet tooths happy, but it won’t keep the Christmas vibes going. 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The dish that defines me: Frank Yeung’s prawn wontons
Defining Dishes is an IndyEats column that explores the significance of food at key moments in our lives. From recipes that have been passed down for generations, to flavours that hold a special place in our hearts, food shapes every part of our lives in ways we might not have ever imagined. There is a family scene I would love to engrave into my memory that involves my father, myself and my son, all making prawn wontons in one kitchen. Prawn wontons are so simple, like all good dishes, and they have a really special place in my heart. I have very fond memories of making them with my father, who is from Hong Kong, when I was growing up and it is my favourite dish. Now, it’s my five-year-old son’s favourite dish as well and he’s the same age I was when I first started making prawn wontons with my father, so it makes me excited to share the dish with him. When my son was younger, his Ye Ye (grandfather) would bring homemade wontons whenever he came over to my house in Peckham. But just recently, we were over at my parents’ home, and he made his first wonton. We were all very proud! It’s so nice because it’s a dish that has run right through my family, it was brought and championed here by my dad. He moved here in 1975 and has the classic first-generation immigrant story. He worked three jobs, moved around a lot, saved money and opened his first restaurant in 1985, 10 years after arriving in England. He finally retired in 2017, but he couldn’t get away from my restaurants. I opened my own establishment, Mr Bao in Peckham in 2016, and then Daddy Bao in my father’s honour. Even now when he comes around to visit, I make him talk more about restaurants. I think he enjoys it, though, and it reminds him of home. That’s really important now because ever since the 2019-2020 mass protests in Hong Kong, the country is a sad place at the moment if you’re from there. But it’s still an amazing place. My favourite part about making wontons from scratch was always the time spent with my dad. The chit chat between us, me kneeling on a stool and him standing at the counter. My hands were not as dextrous at that age and I certainly wasn’t practised, but he would be there to help show the right way to make the little parcels and finish them up for me. The bonding moment is what I cherish the most. Mum is English and she got involved too, she is actually amazing at it. Prawn wontons are also part of Christmas time for my family. Our big tradition is to have a massive steamboat on Boxing Day, which most people of Chinese descent will be familiar with. It usually involves a big, steaming pot of soup on a constant boil, and everyone sits around the table cooking fresh, raw ingredients in it and eating as they go. Prawn wontons are a big, big part of that meal for us, especially now that we have a couple of young kids running around at Christmas time, they really love it. The thing I remember most about making wontons with Dad is the filling. He has his own method for making the prawn mince that goes inside the parcels. He gets his prawns and chops them up, mixes them with any additional ingredients like garlic, and then he would make me pick up a handful of the mixture and throw it back down onto the chopping board, pick it up and throw it back down. It somehow aerates the mince and softens it, and makes it stickier so there aren’t big chunks of prawns floating around. I haven’t really adapted Dad’s recipe for myself, aside from the type of dipping sauce I like to have with them. We keep it very traditional. Oh, I suppose I do have a slight modification, actually. I like to mix gambas (white) prawns from the southwest coast of Spain with North Atlantic shrimps, which are tiny, tiny little crustaceans the size of your nail. They have got a really good flavour. I like to chop those up into the mince with the bigger prawns, add a bit of salt and white pepper, stir it through and then do the throwing method as my dad does. We usually make our own wonton skins. In a pinch, we’ll use shop-bought ones, but when we know we’ve got time we’ll make our own. At the moment, Dad makes handmade dumplings with my sister for her business so they have a dumpling skins machine – but we used to make them by hand, old-school style. He would roll them out because he could get the thickness of the skins right. It wasn’t possible when I was young as I had no idea and was clumsy! They have to be thin, but not so thin that they break or the wontons will open up in the water. It’s something I haven’t managed to master, but there’s still time. Some places don’t even use the regular wonton skins, and they are still amazing. One of my favourite restaurants ever was in Hong Kong – it has closed down now – but it was a hole-in-the-wall type of place that served two types of wontons: classic wontons or fish skin wontons. That was their entire menu. They used fish skins instead of pastry skins to wrap their wontons, and they were something like £1.20 for a bowl at the time. It was definitely the best meal I had with Mum, Dad and my sisters in Hong Kong. The wontons get boiled for two minutes. You can make a wonton soup with a base stock, using ginger, spring onions, salt, pork bones. Boil that down and skim off the top. Or, you can dip the wontons into a chili garlic sauce, which is how my dad likes – although another way I differ from Dad is that I like to add black vinegar to the sauce of soy sauce, garlic and chili, to add an extra layer of acid. You can also eat them as they are, they are completely delicious. My stomach is rumbling as I think about them. As my son gets older, it will be really nice to be able to make wontons altogether, the three generations of us at the kitchen island, chatting away. That’s what I’d like my son to take away from those sessions, the memory of doing it with his Ye Ye and me. I’d also like him to, in time, be able to link quality to food and what you’re putting in your body. I want him to understand that even though it’s so easy to go to the shop and buy something, everything starts out as a living thing. A prawn is an animal and a chive is a real plant grown in the soil. You don’t have to make it yourself and you should go to restaurants to support them, but when you do go, you’ll have a better appreciation for it. Frank Yeung is the chef-owner of Mr Bao and Daddy Bao in London. 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