As I sit in the dark of Screen 2 at Oxford’s Curzon cinema, a woman a few seats away from me does something I’ve not seen before: she orders pizza. Specifically, she orders £64.85 worth of pizzas and chips for her and her family. A few minutes later – after the film has started, in fact – the food is brought to her, as though she was sitting in any regular restaurant and not in a cinema. Eating at the pictures is becoming ever more sophisticated, with ushers bringing you food as fancy as sushi without you having to move a muscle. Is it getting a bit silly? It’s no secret that cinemas have endured a range of crises over the past few years, partly thanks to the rise of streaming and then the pandemic and even more streaming. Cinemas across the country have shut down and forecasters predict that screens won’t be as full as they were pre-Covid until 2025. Some of the cinemas that survived, like AMC, are saddled with billions of pounds worth of debt. Just showing people films may not cut it in this difficult new era. As they fight to survive, cinemas are having to up their game. They have to offer “experiences”. Christina Flourentzou, operations manager at Curzon, says they learned that customers wanted more food and drink with their film thanks to their feedback service, Feed It Back. This happened before Covid struck, she points out, but post-pandemic the company rolled their restaurants out on a bigger scale. “What we’re trying to do is elevate the guest experience,” she says. “For us it’s about giving the guest the best possible experience; so anything that they want, we can give them, essentially.” At my local Curzon this includes padron peppers, mushroom and truffle croquettes, and vegan hot dogs. What Curzon has discovered, according to Flourentzou, is that when at-seat food and drink service is offered, the spend per customer goes up – often by as much as £2 per person. There is a different mindset when ordering at your seat compared with ordering at the till: “You take your coat off, your hands are free, you look at a menu, suddenly someone comes to you and says, ‘What would you like?’ Your mentality changes.” On any new site Curzon will now endeavour to install tables at seats, in order to allow for this in-screen service. Eating entire meals in your cinema seat is becoming more and more popular but it isn’t a brand-new phenomenon. Studio Movie Grill, born in Texas but with sites in states including California, Florida and Georgia, has been offering at-seat food and drink since 2000. Tearlach Hutcheson, the company’s vice president for film, calls this kind of operation a “cinema eatery”. He agrees that it isn’t just the pandemic that has caused a shift in customer priorities; it’s been happening over the past 20 years as home entertainment systems have become increasingly more sophisticated and cinemas have had to compete. “I think that people are looking for a different experience when they go to the theatres,” he says. “We have to provide a more luxurious catering experience to the guest.” I think the immersion is only going to get more and more. I think that everyone is going to adapt because this is what people want. I don’t think the cinema is enough now ... I don’t think it’s ever going to go back to popcorn and drinks Amy Fernando, creator of Taste Film At Studio Movie Grill, food revenue is more than twice that of ticket sales, and its CEO says that business is better for the company than before the pandemic. In cinemas, profit margins have always been higher on food than on tickets – though these margins are far smaller for cooked food than for popcorn and Coke. The kitchen staff at Studio Movie Grill are often dishing out six meals per minute. A recent innovation was a kitchen printer that printed orders faster than ever before. Servers are allowed to bring food and drink to guests at any point (unlike Curzon, where, Flourentzou says, it should strictly happen during the adverts and trailers) but the bulk of orders are placed within the first 30 minutes of arrival. Studio Movie Grill could represent the future of the cinema-going experience: it might soon be completely normal to bundle the film-and-a-meal experience into one. What Hutcheson is confident about is that cinemas will become more of a “destination spot” in order to entice people to leave the comfort of their homes. Flourentzou doesn’t think I’m right to call it “panic” but it does seem like cinemas are urgently fighting to stay alive. One person who knows all about using food and cinema to create an experience is Amy Fernando, creator of Taste Film, an enterprise that shows films to customers while serving them food featured in those films. Watching Goodfellas in 2016, Fernando was inspired by the infamous shaving garlic scene to marry the two things she cared most about. Seven years later, she has swapped teaching for running the business full-time. “I think the beauty of coming to the cinema, or doing an experience like this, is sharing it with like-minded people,” she says. “Post-Covid there is something special in getting dressed up, going out, and sharing the experience with other people.” When I go to watch Taste Film’s version of Mrs Doubtfire, I agree. I didn’t think of the film as one featuring all that much food but at appropriate moments we are served a savoury birthday muffin; chilli salt and pepper chicken wings; a meringue martini; tiger prawn skewers with chips and salad; a pina colada; and a chilli and chocolate mousse. As Fernando says, the frisson of fun is largely to do with two communal experiences: everyone not just watching the film at the same time but eating the same food at the same time. This won’t be replicable in regular cinemas (a Taste Film ticket is £75, for example) but the company is going from strength to strength, partnering with the big streamers, and its growth is indicative of people’s updated expectations around film. “Guests want more,” says Fernando, “and younger people want more.” Ultimately, of course, it will be the quality of films that govern whether or not cinemas stay afloat. This summer has seen an unusual boom in quality and business, with Barbie and Oppenheimer proving critical darlings as well as excellent earners. But where the cinemas can’t control how good the films are, they can control the various offerings they provide around them. “I think the immersion is only going to get more and more,” says Fernando. “I think that everyone is going to adapt because this is what people want. I don’t think the cinema is enough now.” Hutcheson and Flourentzou agree. Hand in hand with this development, Hutcheson says, will be a resurgence in “purer cinematic experiences” – people wanting to experience cinema with as sophisticated a picture and sound experience as possible. He believes that it won’t be long before cinema eateries – at the moment confined to more modest theatres – will also enter the IMAX space. Look at the signs and it certainly seems as though it will be difficult to put the genie back in the bottle – which means cinemagoers may need to brace themselves for an exciting new range of smells. Fernando is probably right when she says: “I don’t think it’s ever going to go back to popcorn and drinks.” Read More Too gay, too weird, too pregnant: The most controversial Barbie dolls in history Doing things alone isn’t ‘self-love’ – we don’t need to make everything empowering Sizzling kitchen drama The Bear is spicing up the dating game for chefs ‘It started with a radish’: Chef Simon Rogan reflects on restaurant L’Enclume at 20 The true story – and murky history – of Portuguese piri piri oil 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy

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With a sunny weekend on the cards and blue skies beckoning us outdoors, chances are you’re checking out that precious patio – or gift of greenery – for eating in the open air. From prepping your garden furniture to sharpening your table-scaping skills, here’s everything you’ll need for a fun-loving summer of colourful entertaining… 1. Sienna White Speckled Glass Jug, £29; Sienna White Speckled Glass Tumblers, Set of 4, £29, ProCook Can’t wait to proffer your first jug of Pimm’s? Neither can we and this stylish speckled jug is just the job for all those tasty strawbs, sliced oranges and sprigs of mint. 2. Nectar Outdoor Sofa Set – Green, £799, Dobbies It’s not every day you splash out on a sofa to soak up the sunshine, so may as well make it one to set the tone for comfy outdoor living with a lick of luxe. This one features a single chair, large L-shaped double sofa with two cushions, single footstool and attractive terrazzo top coffee table. 3. Lemon Picnic Platter, £10; Set of 4 Summer Fruits Picnic Dinner Plates, £15; Set of 4 Summer Fruits Picnic Side Plates, £15; Large Lemon Picnic Bowl, £10; Set of 2 Lemon Outdoor Cushions, £25; rest of items from a selection, Marks & Spencer Lemons are currently basking in the limelight and trending on tableware – they not only look mouth-watering, but are an instant summery update. 4. John Lewis Salsa 2-Seater Garden Sofa, Two Tone Yellow, £165, John Lewis Surely the brightest way to pimp up a patio is with a posh polyweave statement sofa in sunshine yellow. Designed to be outdoors all summer long, it will look just as sultry in a sun room or conservatory. 5. Ooni Fyra Pizza Oven, £299, Dobbies Billed as the next best thing to a traditional stone pizza oven, this Ooni Fyra fuelled by energy-efficient wood pellets turns out the tastiest pizza – and promises to put the pow-wow into your pepperoni and nicest into a Neapolitan. Super speedy and versatile, it also loves fish, veggies and burgers. 6. Natural Slogan Straw Effect Outdoor Cushion, £14; Orange Reversible Outdoor Cushion, £14, right; Orange Leaf Outdoor Cushion, £10, far left and far right; Multicoloured String Lantern, £25, Matalan An easy update, a handful of scatter cushions in sunny shades will breathe new life into tired garden furniture… and channel some holiday vibes teamed with a colourful lantern. 7. Flamingo Plastic Picnicware: Set of 4 Tumbler Glasses, £16; Set of 4 Wine Glasses, £18; Jug, £18; Set of 2 bowls, £18; Yellow Lemon Picnic Serve Platter, £15; rest of items from a selection, Next When life gives you lemons… team them with pretty pink flamingos to cheer your friends. 8. French Pink/Antique White Stripe Large Tassel Fringed Beach And Garden Parasol, currently £220 from £235, Staycation! Vintage Style Parasols A showstopper of a sunshade, this candy stripe parasol imbibes thoughts of laid-back beach holidays and long, lazy lunches. With 32mm solid beachwood pole, multi-position tilt function and matching fabric carry bag, this A-list accessory offers UV50+ protection from the sun’s harmful rays. 9. Boutique Camping Fire Pit, currently £139 from £149, Boutique Camping Combining function with form, as we spend more evenings outside, the warming flames of a fire pit not only look radiant, but soothe the soul with their mesmerising flame. Just add wood or coals to the steel bowl. 10. John Lewis ANYDAY Mase Indoor/Outdoor Rug, Blue, L180 x W120cm, £100; Palm Grove Indoor/Outdoor Cushions, Cobalt, £12 each; John Lewis ANYDAY 2-Seater Metal Garden Sofa, Light Blue, £129; John Lewis ANYDAY Metal Garden Lounge Chair, Light Blue, £79, John Lewis When you want to slip into a relaxing, Mediterranean vibe, this pale blue seating with woven rug made from recycled water bottles is one way to visualise light breezes and beautiful views. 11. Sur La Table Bamboo Salad Bowl, £25; Bamboo Salad Spoons, £12; Green, Orange and Blue Cereal Bowls, £9 each; Pasta Bowls, £11 each; rest of items from a selection, Pure Table Top This Colour Me Happy range of striking serveware is another way to treat yourself to a colourful menu… Bon appétit! Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live Why going sober could be the key to fitness success 5 of this summer’s hottest swimwear trends Teenagers with obesity should be offered weight loss drug, say experts

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