In 1953, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reopened her couture house after a 14-year hiatus at the age of 70. “Why did I return?” the legendary fashion designer later posited in an interview with Life magazine. “One night at dinner, Christian Dior said a woman could never be a great couturier.” It’s a quote that perfectly captures everything Chanel represents to this day, more than a century after she opened her first millinery shop in Paris in 1910. It also happens to be nestled in the enormous boarded timeline of the designer’s life that greets visitors to Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, a major retrospective of the French couturière’s work, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Marking the first time that a UK exhibition has been dedicated entirely to Chanel, it charts the designer’s humble beginnings in the Loire Valley of France through to the establishment of her eponymous brand and the evolution of her creations throughout the years. Incorporating gowns, suits, jewellery, fragrances and accessories, the exhibition features more than 50 of the designer’s famous tweed suits alongside several fragile pieces usually stored deep within the belly of the V&A’s archive. “We were very aware of the classic things people know about Coco Chanel,” says curator Connie Karol Burks, referencing the designer’s famous little black dresses, the 2.55 handbag and her tweed suits. “We really wanted to spotlight much more of what she contributed to fashion, and a bit more of her approach to designing clothes, like her need for comfort, simplicity and freedom of movement.” It’s a modality easily expressed from the start of the exhibition, the entrance to which is a subtle, black, perfume-like box on the ground floor (the museum’s usual rotunda-like fashion space is currently occupied by its Diva exhibition). When downstairs, visitors may be surprised to find flowing frocks fitted with bows and pockets from as early as the 1930s. “She was an active independent woman, primarily designing for herself,” explains Karol Burks. “These were practical and elegant clothes.” Practicality, as we soon learn, was an integral part of Chanel’s oeuvre. The exhibition celebrates the designer’s penchant for streamlined garments, clothes that rejected the stiff and restrictive aesthetics that had defined women’s wear just a few years earlier. It also includes details of her deep connection to Britain, including her friendships with figures from high society. While staying at the respective homes of Winston Churchill and the Duke of Westminster, Chanel embraced British sport, which is thought to be how the corresponding aesthetics of tweed and knitted jerseys found their way into her collections. Also included here is a sketch of Chanel painted by Churchill while the two were staying at the Duke of Westminster’s Scottish retreat in 1928. “Coco is here,” he wrote to his wife at the time. “She fishes from morn till night, & in two months has killed 50 salmon.” Elsewhere, highlights include the Chanel “Ford”, the name given to the designer’s little black dress that became a global staple for women everywhere. There are evening gowns aplenty, and an optic-white room entirely dedicated to the creation of the designer’s iconic perfume Chanel No 5, as well as an oval-shaped section devoted to Chanel’s tweed suits, with two rows of them spanning the curve of the room. As has already been reported, the exhibition also doesn’t shy away from Chanel’s controversial wartime activities. It features previously unseen documents illustrating evidence of her collusion with Nazis during the Second World War, while also, confoundingly, unearthing evidence that indicates she was a member of the French resistance. “It’s such a complex thing to get your head around,” says Karol Burks. “We felt it was important to have it in the exhibition and to display those original documents. But they almost give more questions than answers.” Unlike the V&A’s Dior exhibition, which charted the brand’s existence beyond the life of its founder, the Chanel retrospective ends with the designer’s death in 1971. Given the label’s extensive history in modern culture, perhaps this makes sense: there’s only so much you can squeeze into one show. But in many ways, it is a limitation that produces a lingering sense of intrigue around the designer herself. “Despite there being over 175 biographies [of Chanel], she’s still being written about and new information is still coming to light,” Karol Burks adds. “I don’t think anyone has quite pinned down who Gabrielle Chanel was. The more you learn about her, the less you know.” ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’ runs from 16 September until 25 February at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum Read More Loved in triangles, dressed for liberation: The queer fashion secrets of Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury Group Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition Pharrell Williams designed his first collection for Louis Vuitton for himself

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Nearly a fifth of parents fear their teenager will ignore a health issue while at university, as many self-diagnose on Google, research has found. Just 13 per cent of the 2,000 parents polled think their son or daughter would consult a proper doctor as soon as they feel unwell. More than one in 10 (12 per cent) think their offspring would be too lazy to seek medical attention, and 11 per cent fear they do not make their health a priority. The study of parents whose children either attend university, have done in the past or plan to soon, by Bupa Family+, also found that many (53 per cent) said their child thinks they are ‘invincible’ and nothing bad will ever happen to them. And as thousands of students prepare to start university, 56 per cent of parents feel excited for their child while 41 per cent are anxious. Dr Naveen Puri, GP and spokesperson for Bupa Family+, which commissioned the research to support the launch of its Family+ insurance proposition built around savings on health insurance for families, said: “All parents worry about their children, whatever their age. “But it can be especially difficult when they move out for the first time and become more independent – and you are no longer nearby to help them. “As a child and even a young adult, when you are unwell or have a health issue, your parents are often your first port of call, or even the ones spotting something is wrong in the first place. “They are usually the ones pointing you in the right direction, sorting appointments and arranging medication you might need. “Moving out or going to university is both an exciting and daunting time for all the family and we hope our new Family+ cover, which also insures older children, will help provide peace of mind to parents and their children alike.” It also emerged that parents’ top fears for their children as they embark on life away from the family home include their financial situation (44 per cent), their mental health (43 per cent), and whether they will be lonely (43 per cent). Others worry about who they will be spending time with (31 per cent), if they’ll know how to look after themselves (32 per cent) and what they’ll do when they feel unwell (23 per cent). And 64 per cent of those who have a child who has already left home admitted they have even lost sleep worrying about them. It emerged that 55 per cent think they would still be the first port of call for help or advice if their child felt unwell despite no longer living under the same roof. Ahead of them moving out, 63 per cent of parents will teach them how to manage their finances, while 59 per cent give tips on how to cook healthy meals. Others show their child how to use a washing machine (56 per cent), how to drink responsibly (40 per cent) and how to deal with mental health concerns (43 per cent). The study, carried out via OnePoll, also revealed girls are considered more likely to take care of their physical (43 per cent) and mental (41 per cent) health than boys (13 per cent and 11 per cent). Dr Naveen Puri, GP and spokesperson for Bupa Family+ said: “Our health is so important, and it can be worrying for parents that their child may be unwell when they aren’t there to help. “Making sure they have the knowledge about what to do in different health situations is a great way of not only ensuring they can look after themselves but also allows you to relax a little knowing they have the tools they need.” Here are the top reasons why parents worry their child would ignore health issues: 1. Googling and self-diagnosing 2. Being too lazy 3. Health is not a priority 4. Embarrassed to talk about their health 5. Worried a GP would judge them Read More ‘It can be hard when your kids leave the nest,’ mother says as study finds parents want their children back How to cope with anxiety during university How often should you wash your pyjamas? ‘My baby’s blue eyes drew praise – but their colour was a warning sign’ Brits get itchy feet in their home after five years, study finds

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