In 1953, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reopened her couture house after a 14-year hiatus at the age of 70. “Why did I return?” the legendary fashion designer later posited in an interview with Life magazine. “One night at dinner, Christian Dior said a woman could never be a great couturier.” It’s a quote that perfectly captures everything Chanel represents to this day, more than a century after she opened her first millinery shop in Paris in 1910. It also happens to be nestled in the enormous boarded timeline of the designer’s life that greets visitors to Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, a major retrospective of the French couturière’s work, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Marking the first time that a UK exhibition has been dedicated entirely to Chanel, it charts the designer’s humble beginnings in the Loire Valley of France through to the establishment of her eponymous brand and the evolution of her creations throughout the years. Incorporating gowns, suits, jewellery, fragrances and accessories, the exhibition features more than 50 of the designer’s famous tweed suits alongside several fragile pieces usually stored deep within the belly of the V&A’s archive. “We were very aware of the classic things people know about Coco Chanel,” says curator Connie Karol Burks, referencing the designer’s famous little black dresses, the 2.55 handbag and her tweed suits. “We really wanted to spotlight much more of what she contributed to fashion, and a bit more of her approach to designing clothes, like her need for comfort, simplicity and freedom of movement.” It’s a modality easily expressed from the start of the exhibition, the entrance to which is a subtle, black, perfume-like box on the ground floor (the museum’s usual rotunda-like fashion space is currently occupied by its Diva exhibition). When downstairs, visitors may be surprised to find flowing frocks fitted with bows and pockets from as early as the 1930s. “She was an active independent woman, primarily designing for herself,” explains Karol Burks. “These were practical and elegant clothes.” Practicality, as we soon learn, was an integral part of Chanel’s oeuvre. The exhibition celebrates the designer’s penchant for streamlined garments, clothes that rejected the stiff and restrictive aesthetics that had defined women’s wear just a few years earlier. It also includes details of her deep connection to Britain, including her friendships with figures from high society. While staying at the respective homes of Winston Churchill and the Duke of Westminster, Chanel embraced British sport, which is thought to be how the corresponding aesthetics of tweed and knitted jerseys found their way into her collections. Also included here is a sketch of Chanel painted by Churchill while the two were staying at the Duke of Westminster’s Scottish retreat in 1928. “Coco is here,” he wrote to his wife at the time. “She fishes from morn till night, & in two months has killed 50 salmon.” Elsewhere, highlights include the Chanel “Ford”, the name given to the designer’s little black dress that became a global staple for women everywhere. There are evening gowns aplenty, and an optic-white room entirely dedicated to the creation of the designer’s iconic perfume Chanel No 5, as well as an oval-shaped section devoted to Chanel’s tweed suits, with two rows of them spanning the curve of the room. As has already been reported, the exhibition also doesn’t shy away from Chanel’s controversial wartime activities. It features previously unseen documents illustrating evidence of her collusion with Nazis during the Second World War, while also, confoundingly, unearthing evidence that indicates she was a member of the French resistance. “It’s such a complex thing to get your head around,” says Karol Burks. “We felt it was important to have it in the exhibition and to display those original documents. But they almost give more questions than answers.” Unlike the V&A’s Dior exhibition, which charted the brand’s existence beyond the life of its founder, the Chanel retrospective ends with the designer’s death in 1971. Given the label’s extensive history in modern culture, perhaps this makes sense: there’s only so much you can squeeze into one show. But in many ways, it is a limitation that produces a lingering sense of intrigue around the designer herself. “Despite there being over 175 biographies [of Chanel], she’s still being written about and new information is still coming to light,” Karol Burks adds. “I don’t think anyone has quite pinned down who Gabrielle Chanel was. The more you learn about her, the less you know.” ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’ runs from 16 September until 25 February at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum Read More Loved in triangles, dressed for liberation: The queer fashion secrets of Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury Group Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition Pharrell Williams designed his first collection for Louis Vuitton for himself

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Female university students are more than twice as likely as male students to say they have been affected by poor mental health, new analysis suggests. Data shows 12% of female students say they have been affected, compared to 5% of males. Reported mental health problems among university students have almost tripled in recent years, according to the analysis. The percentage of undergraduate students at universities across the UK who said they had experienced mental health difficulties rose from 6% to 16% between the 2016/17 and 2022/23 academic years. It means one in six undergraduates now reports experiencing mental health challenges. The findings suggest further action should be taken to prevent mental health difficulties arising wherever possible, and that services are adequately resourced to support students quickly when they need help Professor Michael Sanders, King’s College London Analysis by the Policy Institute at King’s College London and the Centre for Transforming Access and Student Outcomes in Higher Education (TASO) found a significant part of this increase occurred in the last 12 months, a period during which the cost-of-living crisis intensified. Poor mental health is by far the most common reason for students wanting to drop out of university. Among those considering dropping out, the proportion citing financial distress as the main reason has risen from 3.5% to 8% between 2022 and 2023. But the general upward trend in mental health problems predates both the rise in inflation and the Covid-19 pandemic, indicating that other factors are likely to be at play, researchers said. The analysis – which drew on a dataset of 82,682 full-time UK undergraduates over seven years – shows some groups are more affected than others. Of the non-binary respondents, 42% said they have been affected by poor mental health, along with 30% of trans people. Bisexual people (28%) have the highest average levels of mental health difficulties among LGBTQ groups across the data, while gay men (14%) have the lowest – although this is still greater than the level seen among straight people (7%). White students (12%) have on average worse mental health than their peers from other ethnicities, but those with a “mixed” ethnicity (12%) are just as likely to have mental health difficulties. Undergraduates who attended state schools (15%) have on average worse mental health than their peers who attended private school (11%), while students who get most of their money through a maintenance loan, grant or paid work are more likely to have mental health difficulties than those on scholarships or with family support. Michael Sanders, professor of public policy at the Policy Institute and author of the study, said: “It’s clear the experiences of mental ill-health among students are deeply unequal, and exist along much the same lines as in society at large, with those from the most disadvantaged backgrounds or who often face discrimination being most likely in general to report struggles with their mental health. “The findings suggest further action should be taken to prevent mental health difficulties arising wherever possible, and that services are adequately resourced to support students quickly when they need help.” Dr Omar Khan, chief executive officer of TASO, said: “This report highlights the persistent and widespread mental health challenges faced by students. “While Covid and the cost-of-living crisis have clearly exacerbated such challenges, the upward trend is not new. “We’re working with the higher education sector to better understand what works to improve mental health outcomes for all students.” It comes as a separate report from the NHS Race and Health Observatory calls for more mental health support for people from Gypsy, Roma and Traveller Communities in England. It said that it is estimated that suicide rates among these groups are up to seven times higher than in other communities. Dr Habib Naqvi, chief executive of the NHS Race and Health Observatory, said: “We know that Gypsy, Roma, and Traveller communities face stark challenges in accessing psychological therapies and other mental health services. “This report lays bare the mental health issues and stigma faced by these communities first hand.” Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live Many parents of under 5s on less than £50k ‘quit work due to childcare costs’ – survey 5 trainer trends that will be everywhere this autumn 11 ways to work autumnal wonder at home

Halloween is quickly approaching, and if you’re anything like me, you’ve been spending the month prepping a couples’ costume for you and your boo, carving pumpkins, and indulging your sweet tooth with seasonal candy. But as all Halloween bitches know, October is the most superior month of the year (sorry, December) because it lets you tap into all things spooky, scary, and sexy. Yes, that’s right. Sexy. Halloween sex appeal isn’t just costumes thrown together with pieces of skimpy lingerie (although we do love them) — there’s a whole other kind of goody to stick into your trick-or-treat bag this month. That’s right: We’re here to talk about Halloween sex toys.

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Lewis Hamilton took aim at Max Verstappen’s criticism of the Las Vegas Grand Prix after lauding the star-studded race as one of the best of the year. The lead changed hands on multiple occasions on a wild and incident-packed night in Sin City. But it was Verstappen, doom-monger-in-chief, who prevailed to take his 18th win from the 21 rounds so far. Ferrari’s Charles Leclerc denied Red Bull a one-two finish after he passed Sergio Perez on the final lap to finish runner-up. The build-up to Formula One’s £500million debut race on the Strip had been mired in controversy. Verstappen accused the sport’s bosses of making him look like a clown following Wednesday night’s Superbowl-style Opening Ceremony. And in the wake of an embarrassing practice washout, the triple world champion compared the event to the fifth tier of English football. He was then effusive in his praise for the sport’s traditional European venues in Monaco, Monza and Spa. But Las Vegas’ 3.8-mile street venue served up a thrill-a-minute classic which culminated in Verstappen passing Leclerc for victory with 13 laps remaining. Hamilton endured an arduous night on the Strip following a collision with McLaren’s Oscar Piastri. The prang dropped him to 19th and last. Hamilton fought back to seventh but he can no longer catch Perez in the race for second in the championship. For all those who said it was all about the show, Vegas proved them wrong Lewis Hamilton Yet, despite his own personal disappointment, the seven-time world champion hailed the Saturday night sizzler as a breakthrough moment for the sport. “For all those who said it was all about the show, Vegas proved them wrong,” said Hamilton in an apparent swipe against Verstappen. “The race was great, and it was one of the best races. There have been so many people who have been negative about the show, and all that. But just let it be and see how it goes. “And it was huge. There has been criticism about having three races in the United States, and people talking about bringing back old classics from Europe. But this has provided a better race than most of the tracks we go to. Hats off to the people who ran the show. “I cannot wait to come back and hopefully have a better race next year. I am really grateful to Vegas for having us.” The inaugural event – billed by F1 as the greatest show on earth – got off to the worst possible start when Carlos Sainz collided with a drain cover and first practice was abandoned after just eight minutes. Furious fans were ejected from the venue before second practice concluded at 4am on Friday. But F1’s American owners’ Liberty Media were celebrating a triumph in the early hours of Sunday morning after stars of stage and scene flocked to the entertainment capital of the world to witness a fascinating race. Verstappen took centre stage after he fought back from a five-second penalty – for pushing pole-sitter Leclerc off the road at the first corner – and a collision with George Russell as they duelled for fifth. Russell was penalised with a five-second penalty of his own by the stewards. The all-conquering Verstappen made his way ahead of Perez, and then Leclerc on laps 36 and 37 respectively to land a fine win. Wearing his Elvis-themed Red Bull overalls, Verstappen belted out a rendition of the King’s Viva Las Vegas from inside his cockpit after taking the chequered flag – waved by pop star Justin Bieber. Verstappen, Leclerc and Perez – who all enjoyed spells leading the race – were then whisked off in a limousine to conduct their post-race interviews in front of the Bellagio before the hotel’s iconic fountains burst into life and a fireworks show lit up the night sky. But was Verstappen ready to row back on his earlier disapproval? “I always expected it to be a good race because there are long straights, and low-speed corners, and you don’t lose a lot of downforce so that has never been my issue,” he said, largely dodging the question. “Today was fun and that is the only thing I want to say about it. I hope everyone enjoyed it. “(Team principal) Christian (Horner) put me on the spot so I couldn’t leave him hanging. I had to sing. But I need some lessons so I am going to go to Geri (Horner) and book an appointment.” But more pressingly for Verstappen will be next weekend’s concluding round of this marathon 22-race season in Abu Dhabi next weekend. Read More Class action lawsuit filed over farcical start to Las Vegas Grand Prix Toto Wolff fuelled by ‘personal anger’ to help Lewis Hamilton win eighth title On this day in 2010: Sebastian Vettel becomes youngest ever F1 world champion ‘One of the best races’: Lewis Hamilton says Las Vegas GP proved critics wrong Las Vegas Grand Prix dazzles on debut with usual dose of Max Verstappen reality F1 Las Vegas Grand Prix LIVE: Verstappen wins as Leclerc overtakes Perez on last lap

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