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As I sit in the dark of Screen 2 at Oxford’s Curzon cinema, a woman a few seats away from me does something I’ve not seen before: she orders pizza. Specifically, she orders £64.85 worth of pizzas and chips for her and her family. A few minutes later – after the film has started, in fact – the food is brought to her, as though she was sitting in any regular restaurant and not in a cinema. Eating at the pictures is becoming ever more sophisticated, with ushers bringing you food as fancy as sushi without you having to move a muscle. Is it getting a bit silly? It’s no secret that cinemas have endured a range of crises over the past few years, partly thanks to the rise of streaming and then the pandemic and even more streaming. Cinemas across the country have shut down and forecasters predict that screens won’t be as full as they were pre-Covid until 2025. Some of the cinemas that survived, like AMC, are saddled with billions of pounds worth of debt. Just showing people films may not cut it in this difficult new era. As they fight to survive, cinemas are having to up their game. They have to offer “experiences”. Christina Flourentzou, operations manager at Curzon, says they learned that customers wanted more food and drink with their film thanks to their feedback service, Feed It Back. This happened before Covid struck, she points out, but post-pandemic the company rolled their restaurants out on a bigger scale. “What we’re trying to do is elevate the guest experience,” she says. “For us it’s about giving the guest the best possible experience; so anything that they want, we can give them, essentially.” At my local Curzon this includes padron peppers, mushroom and truffle croquettes, and vegan hot dogs. What Curzon has discovered, according to Flourentzou, is that when at-seat food and drink service is offered, the spend per customer goes up – often by as much as £2 per person. There is a different mindset when ordering at your seat compared with ordering at the till: “You take your coat off, your hands are free, you look at a menu, suddenly someone comes to you and says, ‘What would you like?’ Your mentality changes.” On any new site Curzon will now endeavour to install tables at seats, in order to allow for this in-screen service. Eating entire meals in your cinema seat is becoming more and more popular but it isn’t a brand-new phenomenon. Studio Movie Grill, born in Texas but with sites in states including California, Florida and Georgia, has been offering at-seat food and drink since 2000. Tearlach Hutcheson, the company’s vice president for film, calls this kind of operation a “cinema eatery”. He agrees that it isn’t just the pandemic that has caused a shift in customer priorities; it’s been happening over the past 20 years as home entertainment systems have become increasingly more sophisticated and cinemas have had to compete. “I think that people are looking for a different experience when they go to the theatres,” he says. “We have to provide a more luxurious catering experience to the guest.” I think the immersion is only going to get more and more. I think that everyone is going to adapt because this is what people want. I don’t think the cinema is enough now ... I don’t think it’s ever going to go back to popcorn and drinks Amy Fernando, creator of Taste Film At Studio Movie Grill, food revenue is more than twice that of ticket sales, and its CEO says that business is better for the company than before the pandemic. In cinemas, profit margins have always been higher on food than on tickets – though these margins are far smaller for cooked food than for popcorn and Coke. The kitchen staff at Studio Movie Grill are often dishing out six meals per minute. A recent innovation was a kitchen printer that printed orders faster than ever before. Servers are allowed to bring food and drink to guests at any point (unlike Curzon, where, Flourentzou says, it should strictly happen during the adverts and trailers) but the bulk of orders are placed within the first 30 minutes of arrival. Studio Movie Grill could represent the future of the cinema-going experience: it might soon be completely normal to bundle the film-and-a-meal experience into one. What Hutcheson is confident about is that cinemas will become more of a “destination spot” in order to entice people to leave the comfort of their homes. Flourentzou doesn’t think I’m right to call it “panic” but it does seem like cinemas are urgently fighting to stay alive. One person who knows all about using food and cinema to create an experience is Amy Fernando, creator of Taste Film, an enterprise that shows films to customers while serving them food featured in those films. Watching Goodfellas in 2016, Fernando was inspired by the infamous shaving garlic scene to marry the two things she cared most about. Seven years later, she has swapped teaching for running the business full-time. “I think the beauty of coming to the cinema, or doing an experience like this, is sharing it with like-minded people,” she says. “Post-Covid there is something special in getting dressed up, going out, and sharing the experience with other people.” When I go to watch Taste Film’s version of Mrs Doubtfire, I agree. I didn’t think of the film as one featuring all that much food but at appropriate moments we are served a savoury birthday muffin; chilli salt and pepper chicken wings; a meringue martini; tiger prawn skewers with chips and salad; a pina colada; and a chilli and chocolate mousse. As Fernando says, the frisson of fun is largely to do with two communal experiences: everyone not just watching the film at the same time but eating the same food at the same time. This won’t be replicable in regular cinemas (a Taste Film ticket is £75, for example) but the company is going from strength to strength, partnering with the big streamers, and its growth is indicative of people’s updated expectations around film. “Guests want more,” says Fernando, “and younger people want more.” Ultimately, of course, it will be the quality of films that govern whether or not cinemas stay afloat. This summer has seen an unusual boom in quality and business, with Barbie and Oppenheimer proving critical darlings as well as excellent earners. But where the cinemas can’t control how good the films are, they can control the various offerings they provide around them. “I think the immersion is only going to get more and more,” says Fernando. “I think that everyone is going to adapt because this is what people want. I don’t think the cinema is enough now.” Hutcheson and Flourentzou agree. Hand in hand with this development, Hutcheson says, will be a resurgence in “purer cinematic experiences” – people wanting to experience cinema with as sophisticated a picture and sound experience as possible. He believes that it won’t be long before cinema eateries – at the moment confined to more modest theatres – will also enter the IMAX space. Look at the signs and it certainly seems as though it will be difficult to put the genie back in the bottle – which means cinemagoers may need to brace themselves for an exciting new range of smells. Fernando is probably right when she says: “I don’t think it’s ever going to go back to popcorn and drinks.” Read More Too gay, too weird, too pregnant: The most controversial Barbie dolls in history Doing things alone isn’t ‘self-love’ – we don’t need to make everything empowering Sizzling kitchen drama The Bear is spicing up the dating game for chefs ‘It started with a radish’: Chef Simon Rogan reflects on restaurant L’Enclume at 20 The true story – and murky history – of Portuguese piri piri oil 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy

In Cartmel, a picture-postcard Cumbrian village on the cusp of the Lake District, chefs in their whites are scurrying across the cobbled streets like an army of well-dressed worker ants. Some are heaving wheelbarrows stacked with mounds of freshly picked vegetables, still earthy from the farm; others are dashing from one building to another, precariously balancing enormous stacks of clean pans. They all have one thing in common: they work for Simon Rogan. If they’re the workers, he’s the queen. This well-rehearsed choreography is a typical sight every morning in Cartmel, where the Michelin-starred chef – one of only eight to own a three-starred restaurant in the UK – set up shop 20 years ago. After a decade of working at various levels in restaurants around the country (including a placement under Marco Pierre White and two years at the three-star Lucas Carton in Paris), Rogan was keen to open his own restaurant. Priced out of Hampshire and Sussex, he looked further afield and found a rundown 800-year-old former smithy in Cartmel available to rent. “I didn’t come here for anything as glamorous as the area or the scenery or the people,” he tells me, having just taken me on a tour of said area to meet said people. “It was just for this building. I was desperate for my own restaurant. I felt like I had never really achieved the things that I’d wanted to working for other people. I wanted to make my own mistakes and be in control of our own destiny. I know it sounds cheesy, but it’s true.” He made an offer on his way back from his first visit to the area, and L’Enclume was born. “Once you realise where you are, you think: s***, this is beautiful,” he adds, laughing. Over the next two decades, the ambitious chef transformed the Cumbrian village into a culinary destination unlike anywhere else in the UK. It’s now home to not only L’Enclume – awarded the environmental green star in 2021 and the coveted third star in last year’s Michelin Guide – but also the one-starred neighbourhood eatery Rogan & Co, and Aulis, L’Enclume’s six-seater chef’s table behind the main restaurant. He also put his name to Henrock, a more informal and relaxed offering just a half hour’s drive away at Linthwaite House, overlooking Lake Windermere. The engine behind this mini empire, and the reason I’m here, is Our Farm, a 12-acre plot in Cartmel that supplies the majority of the restaurants’ ingredients. A sustainable, closed-loop growing operation had always been “at the back of his mind”, Rogan says. He was inspired by his father, a fruit and vegetable salesman who would bring home a box of the day’s best produce, teaching him the importance of using every part of the ingredient. When they arrived in Cartmel to get started, though, “the standard of produce”, Rogan says “was absolutely rubbish. The reason we got into farming was my frustration at the ability to buy a perfect radish, which is the easiest thing in the world to grow.” They rented a small plot close to the restaurant, and filled in the gaps with local suppliers. But, back in 2002, it was too expensive to buy organic. “Things were triple the price they are now,” Rogan tells me, taking a sip of his beetroot juice at the Aulis counter. “So we bought little bits and pieces here and there alongside the normal suppliers. Then we had the opportunity to take over the farm. That’s when we thought: ‘Right, let’s start growing radishes.’” What started as a little garden has become something bigger than he could ever have anticipated. A restaurant growing its own produce is not a groundbreaking concept, but a kitchen garden this is not. You won’t find pristine beds and trimmed rose bushes and arty ornaments. But you will find a patchwork of muddy fields growing hardy vegetables, the topsoil painstakingly “fluffed” by hand; a regiment of polytunnels housing the more finicky plants, delicate micro herbs and other culinary experiments (I try something that tastes like pickled onion Monster Munch); and enormous hand-rotated compost bins that process all the food waste from the restaurants into mulch for the farm. All this is surrounded by hedgerows that have been carefully curated to attract birds and other wildlife to act as natural pesticides. None of this would be possible without head farmer John Rowland. Regenerative agriculture might be his trade, but birds are his true passion. During a tour of the farm, he lists off the species he’s seen circling overhead, drawn by the blackthorn, hawthorn, rowan and birch trees he’s been planting on the borders. “We cater for the birds more than the people,” he tells me, in a Welsh accent so bucolic I wonder whether he’s been shipped in specifically for the tour. “Everything on the farm has a use, and not only in a culinary way. The seeds and the berries attract the birds onto the farm. The birds are my pest control, so the more I can attract to the farm, the more pest control I have, and that is fantastic for birdlife. In Britain, we’ve lost 84 per cent of our bird species, but this area is really rich because of these techniques.” While he might prefer looking upwards, it’s what’s beneath our feet that Rowland is really focused on. “The life is in the soil,” he says, grabbing a great fistful of the stuff. “You have hundreds of types of fungus right here. We don’t want to disturb that biome in the ground so rather than rotavating the soil [breaking up the earth with a machine ready for planting] and destroying the millions of organisms that live in it, we build a six-inch layer of compost on top and aerate it with a fork. Once you’ve done that, each year you just top it off with an inch, and that’s regenerative farming,” he says matter-of-factly, clapping the dirt from his hands. Well, that’s the gist anyway, and while it’s perhaps a little more complicated than that, Rowland struggles to understand why more people aren’t farming in this way. “We’re the most nature-depleted country in the world. We’ve lost our wildflower meadows, we’ve lost our insect population, we’ve lost our wild songbird population. They’ve taken the hedgerows away to make the fields bigger. All the natural food in our countryside is being lost to intensive farming.” Regenerative techniques like those Rowland is putting into practice on Our Farm would go some way to reclaiming it, he says, but “it’s a shame that they don’t realise that”. He pauses for a moment, then corrects himself: “Well, it’s not that they don’t realise it. They know. It’s just that they want intensive farming because it makes them money and it’s wrong because we are killing everything.” How this translates to the table at L’Enclume is manifold. Every dish on the menu begins life on the farm, where Rowland will flag what’s in season and at its best, or suggest something new he’s been experimenting with. Or it might start as an ingredient foraged from the countryside or sourced from a local supplier. The idea is then tweaked in the development kitchen at Aulis, before it finally makes its way to the pass at L’Enclume. This results in a transient snapshot of Cumbrian cuisine that changes every time you dine, and a menu quite unlike anything else I’ve come across. When I visit in February, Boltardy beetroot – a variety chosen for its resistance to erratic weather – shines in a bitesize tart with smoked pike-perch fished locally, and perilla, a Southeast Asian herb cultivated on the farm that adds notes of mint and licorice. Elsewhere, there’s lovage and rose hip and lemon thyme, all foraged; there’s Cornish cod and Mylor prawns and potted shrimp and Maldon oysters; sweetcorn and champagne rhubarb from the farm that were fermented after they were harvested last summer so they could be used year-round; and an enormous selection of British cheeses, including Tunworth, which is frozen and crumbled in a palate-perplexing, salty-sweet dessert. It happens to be my favourite dish. Managing a farm-to-fork operation this complex, not to mention the empire, is no mean feat. “I could pretty confidently be a tax exile given how little I am in the UK at the moment,” he jokes. When we chatted in February, the team was preparing to revive their pre-Covid plan for a five-week residency in Sydney, which concluded this month. The punchline, of course, is the delay meant Aussies were given a taste of not a two-star L’Enclume, but all four stars. Given Australia is yet to receive a Michelin Guide and is not particularly well known for its agricultural sustainability, it was an interesting move, but one there is clearly appetite for. Despite the $420-a-head price tag, it was sold out, serving more than 4,000 diners. While the food at L’Enclume, at home and abroad, is clearly special, it’s the people that set it apart from other restaurants in this league. Their hospitality, affability and, perhaps most noticeably, northern accents, are not typically what you find at this price bracket (£250 a head for the tasting menu, plus £100-£290 for a pairing). Stuffiness is neither present nor tolerated. Many of the staff have been with Rogan since the beginning, switched between the restaurants, or left for pastures new only to return. “We get a lot of people coming back – only the ones we want, anyway,” he says slyly. There’s certainly been a few famous quarrels. The “Rogan alumni” is a term thrown around a lot during my visit, and includes Mark Birchall, who was executive chef at L’Enclume during its two-star era before setting up a curiously similar “restaurant with rooms”, Moor Hall, in Lancashire, which also boasts two stars and a further green. Then there’s Dan Cox, who cut his teeth at Rogan’s now-closed Fera in Claridges as well as L’Enclume, and helped him set up Our Farm in the early days. He’s now down in Cornwall, running the farm-to-table Crocadon. But, generally, people are drawn back to L’Enclume for the variety it has to offer. “Look around the country,” says Rogan, “and [other restaurants] haven’t got any staff because they can’t offer as many career progression opportunities for people. I suppose that makes them lucky. “It’s about not spreading yourself too thin. We’re only able to do these things because these guys are really, really hungry.” Acknowledging that hunger, he established the Simon Rogan Academy in 2021 to “nurture aspiring chefs”. It includes paid work across the Cartmel restaurants, and culminates in a week-long placement at his restaurant Roganic in Hong Kong. In the beginning, “we thought that maybe if we had just a third of them left at the end of the quarter, it’d be brilliant,” Rogan tells me. “But almost all of them stayed on! And now they all want jobs” – he comically rolls his eyes – “but really it’s great.” As I drift between the farm and the Cartmel restaurants, everyone hard at work but always smiling, it strikes me that L’Enclume isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a story. And its influence is immense. “Sustainability”, “farm-to-table” and “regenerative agriculture” were mere whisperings 20 years ago. Now they’re affixed to almost every new menu, and you could say they were born here. The people I’ve met could well be the next batch of Rogan alumni, attracting Michelin’s attention with their own restaurants in years to come. If it takes 20 years to craft a legacy like this, then I’ll make sure I come back in 2043. For more information about L’Enclume, visit www.lenclume.co.uk and for more information about Simon Rogan and his other restaurants visit www.simonrogan.co.uk Read More Why I won’t be doing Veganuary this year – or ever again Marina O’Loughlin is wrong – there’s joy in solo dining Michel Roux Jr announces closure of renowned restaurant Le Gavroche to have ‘better work/life balance’ The true story – and murky history – of Portuguese piri piri oil 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy What to cook this week: Tomato tart, sweetcorn pasta and other summery suppers

The next time you eat something with your hands, take a moment to notice how it feels on your fingertips before taking a bite. If it’s a burger, are the buns smooth or covered in a smattering of sesame seeds? When you put pressure on them with your fingers, does the bread squish down or is it more of a crumby affair? Then, when you finally take a bite, notice how satisfying it is to sink your teeth through its layers; soft bun giving way to crunchy lettuce or onion, to oozy cheese to, finally, juicy patty. Now think about how different it would be if you had used a knife and fork. Eating with one’s hands is an immensely pleasurable experience. While in the West, the act is usually confined to foods encased in bread or pastry, Indian, African and some other Asian cultures are more adept at using their fingers for dishes that might seem too “messy” or “sticky” on this side of the world. One of my favourite dishes is banana leaf rice, which at its core comprises of rice, vegetables and curry. I mix each element of the dish and use a pinching motion with all five fingers to construct the perfect bite, before sweeping it up in a quick motion and delivering the food to my mouth. I find that it forces me to really consider each bite, from what flavours and textures I want it to contain, to how large a portion I can manage. Up until a few months ago, I never really thought about how often I eat with my hands. Like many people, I associated it closely with Indian meals and always thought that Western culture was too obsessed with polite society to really dig their fingers in. This is still true, to an extent – many South Asians who grew up eating with their hands report being looked at with horror when they attempted to do the same in public here. But, after witnessing my very white British husband happily dig into banana leaf rice when we began dating, and having conversations with friends about the topic, I’ve come to realise that eating with our hands is a much more universal act than I thought. For example, burgers, pizzas, hot dogs and chips are all eaten by hand – unless you’re eating one of those beastly burgers that tower too high and need to be deconstructed. Then there’s things like fried chicken or shellfish, which are simply easier to pick up, pull apart and pry open using your fingers. Foods like Mexican burritos and tacos or Japanese sushi are commonly picked up by hand and devoured. Some people enjoy eating salads by hand, finding it easier to use pieces of lettuce filled with dressing and other ingredients like edible spoons. A surprising proponent of this was Sylvia Plath, who wrote in the third chapter of her 1963 novel The Bell Jar that she observed a poet eating a salad “with his fingers, leaf by leaf”, making it “seem to be the only natural and sensible thing to do”. The more I think about it, the more I realise that my hands are my favourite utensil. No one is delicately picking up crisps with chopsticks or forking a French fry. All manner of flat breads – from parathas and naans to injeras – beg to be torn apart by hands and used to mop up dhal and curry. I would never think of eating a sandwich with a fork and knife, any more than I would for a Taiwanese bao. It just seems wrong. On this side of the world, cutlery has reigned supreme until very recently. Primitive humans have been carving knife and spoon-like implements for centuries, while the fork is a surprisingly modern invention. According to the Smithsonian Magazine, a Byzantine princess debuted a golden fork at her wedding feast in Venice 1006, which disgusted locals who ate using their fingers and knives. One Venetian apparently condemned such a tool and said: “God in his wisdom has provided man with natural forks – his fingers. Therefore it is an insult to him to substitute artificial metal forks for them when eating.” There’s perhaps also an aspect of self-consciousness being thrown out the window when we eat with our hands. It banishes the concept of formality and Anglocentric ‘table manners’ Surekha Ragavan Despite the initial rejection, forks became a mainstay across Europe after 1533 when Catherine De Medici, wife of Henry II, hauled a collection of silver forks from Italy to France in 1533. Three hundred years later, the full set of silverware as we know it had integrated itself into everyday life in Europe. Manners-obsessed Victorians then made up all sorts of etiquette rules, from how to hold a fork, to the myriad of different-sized cutleries with very specific purposes – like fish knives and dessert spoons. These became class markers, separating the upper echelons of society with their dinky utensils from the lower classes, who worked too much to care about which spoon went where. But one thing could be agreed upon – eating with one’s hands was considered impolite and vulgar in almost all culinary situations. That is, until about a decade ago when DeBrett’s, the British authority on etiquette and behaviour, declared in their 2012 guide that “table manners are no longer about adhering to a rigid, and outdated, code of conduct”. The experts named foods like pizza and calzone as “acceptable” foods to be eaten using your hands. It also advised such adventurous eaters to create “as little mess as possible”, sit up straight and ensure you “never put your elbows on the table”, proving that some old habits die hard. Bristol-based restaurateur Rashintha Rodrigo, one of the five founders of Sri Lankan restaurant group The Coconut Tree, says he eats almost anything with his hands – even a roast dinner. “I start with a fork and knife but always find myself picking pieces of chicken or potato off my plate with my fingers towards the end of the meal,” he laughs. He also grew up eating rice and curry with his hands in Sri Lanka, and felt self-conscious about doing the same when he moved to Britain. But these days, he finds it liberating. “It’s become more accepted in the past five or six years and more people are curious about it,” Rodrigo says. Surekha Ragavan, founder of Periuk, a digital archive of heritage Malaysian recipes, also finds freedom in the act. “There’s perhaps also an aspect of self-consciousness being thrown out the window when we eat with our hands. It banishes the concept of formality and Anglocentric ‘table manners’,” she says, reminding me of another observation by Plath in The Bell Jar. The author’s liberation is slightly different, though, as she wrote: “I’d discovered, after a lot of extreme apprehension about what spoons to use, that if you do something incorrect at a table with a certain arrogance… nobody will think you are bad-mannered or poorly brought up. They will think you are original and very witty.” Those who advocate eating with hands often also say it makes the food taste better, but no one seems to be able to pinpoint why. Jose Pizzaro, the acclaimed Spanish owner and founder of the Pizarro group of restaurants, describes it as “the best way to eat”. “It’s a visceral pleasure that’s really hard to beat,” he says. “It creates a sort of magical connection between you and the food. If you’ve never eaten a big, fat, juicy prawn covered with garlic and lemon with your hands, and then go through the ritual of pulling off the legs and the shell and then sucking the brains out – you haven’t lived!” But why is the tactile sensation of touching food so delightful? Some opine that touching your food is beneficial because you can gauge food temperature better with your fingers, and so run a lower risk of burning your tongue. Others claim that your fingers have “healthy bacteria” on them that get transferred into your digestive system when you eat with your hands, but these are difficult to quantify. However, Charles Spence, professor of experimental psychology at the University of Oxford, believes the pleasure lies in our perception of food, as opposed to any other physical benefits. In his review of how the experience of eating changes when people eat with their hands instead of cutlery, Spence found that having more direct, tactile contact with food appears to “enhance the experience” of eating and drinking. “There’s a lot of sensory input that happens even before we put the food in our mouth,” he says. “Just by using our sensitive finger pads, we almost anticipate how tasty something is going to be before it reaches our tongue.” There’s practicality in using our hands to eat, too. We can determine how ripe a fruit is by squeezing it gently, or figure out if something is going to be soft or crunchy before biting into it. Of course, there are some dishes that are simply not hand-friendly. Noodles, pasta and soups obviously require cutlery to eat, but there’s nothing to stop us from taking more joy in the foods we can eat with our hands. If you’ve never tried handling anything beyond a sandwich or a pasty, I fully encourage you to try something new. Take a leaf out of Plath’s book with your next salad, perhaps, or take the plunge into some rice and curry. It will require practice to develop the skill of eating without dropping rice absolutely everywhere, but I promise you, it’s worth it. Read More Adorable, cuddly… evil? How the Furby took over the world ‘You think it’s going to be a money making machine’: How modern life killed the hobby The dish that defines me: Mallini Kannan’s baked honey-soy salmon 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy What to cook this week: Tomato tart, sweetcorn pasta and other summery suppers The dish that defines me: Mallini Kannan’s baked honey-soy salmon

Most people in the UK think they know piri piri. Thanks to a certain restaurant chain, it is most closely associated with chargrilled chicken, floppy bits of halloumi, corn on the cob and bottomless fizzy drinks. But the chilli oil’s history is a little more nuanced and murky than that. During a recent trip to the Algarve, where “chicken houses” outnumber British expats, I went in search of the truth. While no one can seem to agree on its exact origins, it’s thought that during Portugal’s “mercantile” era, explorers discovered the bird’s eye chilli pepper – the main ingredient in today’s ubiquitous hot sauce – somewhere in the Americas in the 15th century. Seeing its potential to rival the “black gold” (black pepper) trade, they brought it back to their colonies in Africa to cultivate it before selling it on to Asia and Europe, significantly cutting down the shipping time. And so the global spice trade was born. But the plant suited Africa’s hot, dry climate and quickly became an important ingredient in local cooking. Fermenting it in the baking African sun and using it to marinade meat cooked over fire produced the first iteration of the classic piri piri flavour we know and love today. It wasn’t until the late Sixties, however, when Portuguese settlers and native Africans started arriving in southern Portugal, bringing with them this centuries-old technique and an appetite for spice, that it took off globally. Around the same time, chicken was becoming more affordable in Portugal, with poorer families buying whole birds to keep everyone fed and the famous “chicken houses” opening up across the Algarve offering an economical meal out. Pairing it with the piri piri oil brought over from the colonies was a natural evolution. Its enduring popularity is evident in sell-out restaurants like Marufo – affectionately referred to as “the chicken shack” – where come dinnertime there’s a queue out the door. But with 20 chickens rotating on the purpose-built spits at any one time, meticulously tended by a hot in temperature as well as temper chef, service is quick. They churn out over 700 chickens a day. As a self-identified aficionado, it’s some of the best I’ve had. It’s also the place where Marco Mendes, co-founder of MJMK Restaurants, conceived the idea for Casa do Frango, London’s authentic Algarvan piri piri outpost. “I’ve been going to Marufo since I was a kid,” he tells me as we pitch up in the queue. “I took Jake [Kasumov, the other half of MJMK] to stay with my family. We were eating this chicken and we started to have that lightbulb moment of: ‘You know, this is really something special. Could we bring this to London?’” They opened the first site in London Bridge in 2018, and have gone from strength to strength, opening three more sites, with the latest one earlier this year in Victoria. Keeping things authentic in London’s melting pot of cuisines is the driving force behind the concept. Aside from the centrepiece of the menu, the piri piri chicken, “there are other touchpoints like the African rice” – supposedly created at a restaurant in the Algarve as a simple rice dish for staff to use up leftover ingredients – and other things that are particularly Algarvan, such as the montanheira salad (mountain tomato salad), which “really feels like home”, or particularly Portuguese, like “pastel de nata, the iconic custard tart of Portugal”. (“That obviously had to be on the original menu, and it’s been there ever since.”) They’re also the only restaurant using the smaller 800g-1kg chickens, known as chooks, that are traditionally used in the Algarve, which they source from a higher welfare farm in the UK. “We adhere to the authentic route of the dish as it’s done in the Algarve,” Mendes explains. “From how we prepare our chicken to how we choose them to begin with; the fact that we reverse spatchcock them; that we don’t marinate them before they go on the grill, they’re just basted in salt.” So what’s happening at Casa do Frango is pretty unique, and London is lapping it up. “For people who know Portugese cuisine or know southern Portuguese food and have been to the Algarve, I think it really resonates with them,” says Mendes. That being said, Portuguese isn’t a cuisine that’s all that well represented in the British capital or across the country, with only a handful of big name spots (MJMK also counts Nuno Mendes’ Lisboeta in its canon) and smaller, family-run eateries paying true homage. Busting myths is an exercise close to Mendes’ heart. “Eating seasonally, eating with respect to the environment, understanding the ecosystem that you’re living in, that to me is what Portuguese cuisine is,” he explains. “But I also think that there’s a wealth of creativity. Some of the stereotypes around Portuguese food can be that it’s potentially a little bit rustic, or not as flavourful or complex or dynamic as our neighbours in Spain, but I think that’s untrue. I find that there’s so much deft in Portuguese cuisine. “I think the storytelling or marketing side of it has felt quite fragmented, but now amazing chefs from across the country are bringing the message out and telling that story. And I think people are realising just how profound the cuisine is and what it’s got to offer.” He’s quick to acknowledge, though, that the wider cuisine and the offering at Casa do Frango would be nothing without the controversial history that brought the bird’s eye chilli pepper to Portugal in the first place. “It’s definitely to do with Portuguese mercantile history in some form or another,” he says. “But I believe that in turn, we received a ton back from the countries and the people that formed part of that mercantile exploration.” He mentions Japanese tempura, brought by Portuguese missionaries to Japan in the 16th century, or vindaloo curry, which was originally invented as a way to preserve fresh ingredients by Portuguese sailors, and was later adapted by local cooks in Goa. He also says “a lot of our dishes came from the interaction between the Portuguese and their land. Take a dish like açorda [a Portuguese bread soup]. It came from Alentejo. The Portuguese living there need sustenance and nutrition, but they didn’t have any money. So they put a piece of bread and a poached egg in broth, and made what was effectively a savoury bread pudding.” It was a frugal way of filling peasant bellies, but today typically includes a handful of other ingredients like fresh herbs or seafood. Back at Casa do Frango in London, Mendes has some tips on how to have a truly authentic Algarvan experience. “If I were to go through my perfect order that’s truly intrinsic to Portugal, I would start by having the couvert, which is the bread and butter and the carrots and the lupin beans. As a starter, I would have the chorizo and the prawns, because both those dishes are iconic to Portugal. I would dip the bread into the piri piri oil as one should do.” Of course. “And then I would follow that with the patatas fritas [the fries], the African rice and the montanheira salad. Then the piri piri chicken. And I would finish it off with what is the most icnoic Algarvan dessert: the mousse de chocolat.” And, while most of the Casa do Frango recipes are a closely guarded secret, he’s shared exclusively with The Independent a few dishes so that you can host the perfect Algarvan feast at home. Saúde! Casa slaw Ingredients: For the slaw: 1 x hispi cabbage (approx 700-800g) 350g carrots 1 red onion (finely diced) 1 bunch of parsley (finely chopped) Sherry and mustard dressing Pinch of Maldon salt For the dressing: 50ml aged sherry vinegar 150ml extra virgin olive oil 3 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp Maldon salt 5 turns of black pepper 2 tbsp caster sugar Method: Mix all the ingredients for the dressing in a large bowl and whisk until fully emulsified. Wash the cabbage, cut in half lengthways, remove the core root and discard any outer leaves if bruised or damaged. Wash the carrots, peel and remove the tops and tails, then grate. Finely shred the hispi cabbage (use a food processor if you have one). Mix the cabbage and carrots together evenly. In a large bowl, mix the slaw with finely diced red onion and the sherry and mustard dressing. Place in a large serving dish and top with a pinch Maldon salt and the finely chopped parsley. Montanhiera salad Ingredients: For the dressing: 75ml white wine vinegar 200ml extra virgin olive oil Large pinch of table salt 1 tsp sugar For the salad: 3 medium green peppers 2 medium white skinned onions (or red onions) 250g cherry tomatoes on the vine 1 cucumber, diced 150ml classic French dressing (shop-bought or homemade) Salt and pepper to season Pinch of dry oregano, to serve Method: Mix all the ingredients for the dressing in a large bowl and whisk until fully emulsified. Pour into a clean bottle and keep refrigerated while you prepare the salad, or save for later. Grill the peppers on the barbecue, turning regularly. Cook for approximately 5 minutes or until the skin is evenly charred. Cool, peel off the skin and discard the seeds, then dice into 1cm cubes. Peel the onion and dice into 1cm cubes. Peel the cucumber, slice in half lengthways, remove the inside with a spoon and dice into 1cm cubes. Wash the tomatoes and slice in half through the eye. Mix the ingredients for the salad with the dressing in a large bowl apart from the oregano, add a pinch of Maldon salt and a few turns of black pepper, and mix well to coat all the ingredients. Serve in a salad bowl, with a sprinkle of dry oregano on top. Classic piri piri oil Ingredients: 5 garlic cloves (crushed to a paste) 1 tsp dried red chilli flakes 1 tsp chilli powder 2 tbsp whisky or brandy 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 bay leaf 1 tsp Maldon sea salt 250ml (1 cup) olive oil Method: Place all ingredients except half of the olive oil in a small pan on a medium heat and bring to a simmer. Then remove from the heat and whisk in the remaining 125ml oil. Cool down and refrigerate until needed. Casa do Frango has four locations in London Bridge, Victoria, Shoreditch and Piccadilly. Find out more or make a reservation at casadofrango.co.uk Read More 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy What to cook this week: Tomato tart, sweetcorn pasta and other summery suppers Dorshi, Dorset, restaurant review: Funky dumplings are a hit on the south coast Tofu chicken to chickpea bacon – how and why you should make plant-based meat at home The dish that defines me: Mallini Kannan’s baked honey-soy salmon Breakfast for dinner and four other things you should cook this week

Need a pick-me-up after lunch? An Italian woman has argued that there’s one coffee choice you should avoid. Italian social media entertainer, The Pasta Queen, has advised her followers to stop ordering a cappuccino in the middle of the day. The popular foodie, whose real name is Nadia Caterina Munno, took to social media to explain why most Italians don’t drink the hot beverage past noon. In her video, an individual behind the camera asked Munno if she would like a cappuccino, to which she firmly replied: “No.” “Why do Italians not drink cappuccinos past 12?” she rhetorically asked. Then, she slammed her hand down on the counter before answering: “Because it’s a breakfast drink.” But that’s not the only reason why. Munno explained how coffee has the ability to “awaken your senses”, which is why cappucinos should only be consumed before 10 in the morning. “If you really want to push it till 11, but not 12,” she added. Munno also said that consuming a copious amount of food in the middle of the day shouldn’t be washed down with a cappuccino, because there’s already “enough going on”. While after lunch may not be the proper time to drink a cappuccino, other coffee options are not off the table. Munno suggested an espresso for the perfect energy boost, but regular drip coffee works fine, too. “When you’re eating a meal, you have enough going on with all those calories and cheeses,” she remarked. “All you need is a quick espresso.” The passionate pasta lover pointed out how drinking a cappucino would elicit the same reaction from Italians that Americans would display if someone chose to eat a hot dog for breakfast. Thousands of her 2.2m followers flooded the comments with their food etiquette suggestions. Some admitted they had tried to order a cappuccino in Italy, but their server refused to give them one. Other individuals refuted Munno’s message, adding that they also ate hot dogs for breakfast. “The delicious thing to do in Italy is let them believe they can control your food. Then drink and eat what you want, where you want, and when you want,” one critic commented, while another added: “I’ll drink my cappuccino when I want. To me, it’s like a dessert.” “Filipino here with our hot dogs with garlic rice and egg,” a viewer wrote. Meanwhile, another skeptic said: “If it is in my cup, I can drink at 8 pm too. 3 am too. My cup, my rules.” One experienced asserted: “I can vouch for this... I am Italian and know of this ‘rule’ yet it did not phase me… I still ordered my cappuccinos in the afternoon and watched several natives enjoying one as well.” “It’s just steamed milk with espresso? Not sure what the big deal is? I say drink what you want, when you want. Respectfully,” she continued, while another Instagram user agreed: “I’m Italian and I love drinking cappuccino in the afternoon.” The Independent has reached out to Munno for a comment. Read More Starbucks' pumpkin spice latte turns 20, beloved by millions and despised by some Starbucks releases new fall menu with two brand-new drinks: ‘Pure joy’ Should I give up Diet Coke? With aspartame under suspicion, an addict speaks Dorshi, Dorset, restaurant review: Funky dumplings are a hit on the south coast National Burger Day 2023: Where to eat the best burgers in London In-N-Out owner reveals where ‘animal style’ name comes from

By the time I sit down at my table in Dorshi, a charming southeast Asian restaurant in the town of Bridport, Dorset, I’m exhausted but excited. The dumpling-forward eatery, tucked inside an alleyway, takes its inspiration from the streets of Penang, Malaysia. It has a hole-in-the-wall feel that many restaurants on the food-obsessed island have, as though you’ve squeezed yourself between two buildings only to find food heaven awaiting you. Opened by friends and owners Jollyon Carter and Radhika Mohendas in 2016, the pair had first spend time travelling around the UK to bring their delicious morsels to festivals, outdoor events and supper clubs. The Malaysian connection is made even clearer after I discover that Mohendas hails from the Southeast Asian country. Although she is absent from Dorshi on the night, I can see the cultural influence in everything – from the menu design, to the white sheets of paper clipped onto the tables, to the short, breezy curtains that hang down to give some semblance of separation between spaces. The presence of paper “tablecloths” suggest your meal might get a little messy, but it’s all part of the fun. The menu is also exciting, divided into dumpling and non-dumpling dishes, with unexpected combinations like pork and Bury black pudding, hot smoked fish, beancurd, and capers, and field mushroom and Dorset red cheddar. I want to order as many things as possible. But getting to this point of my evening has taken almost eight hours, when it should have taken no longer than four. My journey to Bridport began promisingly: there were no train strikes and my guest and I were well prepared with snacks and tinnies for the two-and-a-half-hour journey from London Waterloo. But no sooner had I stepped onto the train things began to go south – both literally and figuratively. The air conditioning was bust and the carriage got muggier and muggier as it crawled along the tracks. The train got stuck mid-way through the journey, leaving us wondering if we would be stranded at Brockenhurst for hours. By the time we actually arrived in Bridport, the journey had stretched to more than five hours. And really, I should’ve known this would happen considering the state of Britain’s railways. But this wasn’t even the end of our travel woes – later, we would discover that getting a taxi to pick you up on time in rural Dorset is something of a rarity, and trying to flag a taxi back to the hotel after 9pm was nearly impossible. Never mind though – here we finally are at Dorshi, stomachs rumbling and hopes high. We order all the aforementioned dumplings, with the addition of the white fish and sorrel number. For the non-dumpling dishes, one of the friendly waitresses recommends a celery, cucumber, strawberries and lovage salad coated in a kind of sauce made from cashews and nori seaweed, which was crunchy, fresh and delicious. We also indulge in fried shimeji mushrooms flavoured with togarashi, a Japanese spice blend of chilli flakes, seaweed and sesame seeds, and served with a seaweed mayo, as well as Hakata noodles (a type of ramen noodle) with the house broth and smoked garlic oil. Each dish is carefully crafted and balanced, making for perfect bites every time. The pork and black pudding steamed dumplings are succulent, while the hot smoked fish and beancurd fillings encased in crispy fried dumpling dough are a crispy, salty revelation. Mushroom and cheese in a dumpling? Yes please, I’d have 10 more of those if I could. I even go out on a limb and try a “kimchi pickleback” – a shot of tequila chased by a shot of kimchi juice. It’s a strange but wonderfully funky combination. Dorshi doesn’t fail to disappoint on any count, and it’s easy to see why everyone I had spoken to that day had raved about it. When we finally return to the family-run Outbuildings, where we were staying the night, I rave about the dumplings we had just devoured to Ed Whitehead and his husband Dom, who had welcomed us with warm smiles to what they describe as a “mini Soho Farmhouse”. The luxurious farm stay (three words that sound strange strung together, but somehow work) was a huge treat that we enjoyed immensely, even going so far as to run the outdoor bath at The Coop the morning after and soak in the calmness of the countryside. Naturally, our taxi back to the station was late and we had just three minutes to spare before jumping onto our train back to London – which was also delayed. But despite all the travel woes, I’d love to go back to Bridport, stay at Outbuildings and dine at the lovely Dorshi again. If only the country’s public transport systems would get its act together, then everyone else can do the same, too. Dorshi, 6 Chancery Ln, Bridport, DT6 3PX | dorshi.co.uk | 01308 423221 Read More The best outdoor restaurants, terraces and rooftop bars in London to book now In Horto: Hearty, outdoorsy fare in a secret London Bridge garden The Union Rye, review: Finally, a decent restaurant in this charming East Sussex town 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy What to cook this week: Tomato tart, sweetcorn pasta and other summery suppers Tofu chicken to chickpea bacon – how and why you should make plant-based meat at home

It seems as though every type of food gets its own day of celebration but National Burger Day (24 August this year) has been a key date in our diary since 2013. While we’re certainly fans all year round, if you want to mark the occasion with your favourite stack – or try something completely new – we’ve rounded up some of our favourite spots in London where you can do just that. From beef and chicken options to plant-based patties and even a fishy newcomer, there’s something for everyone. For example, indulge in a dirty burger from Five Guys, an OG classic from Bleecker or one of the new additions that have joined the ranks specifically for the big day. Whatever you’re feeling, this list should have you covered. Burgers and Beats A newcomer to the scene, Burgers and Beats has only been around since 2021. However, in that short space of time it’s fast cemented itself as one of London’s best burger offerings. You may have seen that iconic tomahawk burger making the rounds on Instagram – and we can confirm it’s not just a novelty. Every bit of it (complete with a fried egg, pico de gallo salsa, chimichurri and more) is absolutely delicious. However, the standard menu is also worth considering with the smashed double cheese and “east meets west” (with sweet chilli syrup and chimichurri mayo) being two of our all-time favourites in London. Also, do leave some room for the chicken tenders and loaded fries as they’re both excellent and worth stretching your stomach a little more for. burgersandbeats.co.uk Burger and Beyond Ah, we remember Burger and Beyond back in the days of the Camden Market stall… then its residency at the Camden Assembly. Well, it’s quite a different kettle of fish now, with four permanent sites up and running. Dining at the OG bricks and mortar spot in London’s Shoreditch, one bite of the “bougie” burger takes us straight back to those early days, but also proves just how far this place has come. Other standouts include the mushroom raclette burger (demonstrating that burgers most definitely do not have to be beef) and the vegan “chicken” entry with Korean sauce and gochujang mayo. We did love the krispie chicken, too, though we wished the miso butter was more prominent. If you’re not a burger fan (weird), we’d also recommend the trio of tacos, or the stellar dirty tots and bone marrow gravy fries. burgerandbeyond.co.uk Bleecker Potentially London’s favourite burger joint, Bleecker is undeniably committed to its cause, with founder Zan Kaufman trying to recreate the moment of euphoria he experienced upon trying “the best burger he had ever eaten” in New York on this side of the pond. From a burger truck to its first kiosk in Spitalfields Market, then bricks and mortar restaurants, it’s been years but this burger joint is still going strong. Again, keeping things simple, the most adventurous it gets is adding blue cheese or Neil Rankin’s symplicity burger to the menu. Burgers can be at their best this way and at Bleecker, the double cheeseburger is more than enough to satisfy any craving. bleecker.co.uk Punk Chef You can find professional chef and TV presenter Scott Garthwaite’s food truck in East London’s Spitalfields Market, which not only serves mouthwatering burgers but also employs three members of staff from the deaf community. We got our hands (and mouths) on Punk Chef’s classic number “The Legend”, which is essentially a chicken parm burger (though plant-based escalopes are also available) with homemade bechamel sauce, melted cheese, gherkins and a special burger sauce. A standout among London’s already top burger offering. punkchef.co.uk Blacklock Known for its chops and iconic Sunday roast, we’d also heard great things about the Blacklock burger. If you’re dining there but don’t fancy chops or steak, the burger offers so much more. Potentially more enjoyable, in our opinion, the double cheeseburger is packed full of onions that have been caramelised in “a healthy glug of vermouth”. Beautifully rich – but not overly so – and also a decent size. We have to say that while the rising trend of “the bigger, the better” may suit some, it might be overreaching for the humble burger. Bravo, Blacklock – we’ll be back for this one. theblacklock.com Black Bear Another London burger staple and one whose market stall days we still remember, Black Bear proves it’s an oldie but a goldie. You can’t come here and not get the Black Bear with cheese, smoked bacon and onion jam. However, the brisket burger, with 12-hour braised meat, and the miso bacon burger, with miso honey butter mayo, are very good choices, too. Share two and take one home for later? Also indulge in the cheeseburger spring roll, one of the restaurant’s signature snacks. blackbearburger.com Shake Shack Yes, we know everyone is well aquainted with the New York burger chain, but Shake Shack has come a long way since its days of being a hot dog stand in Madison Square. Originally the class “roadside” burger, what we really love about Shake Shack is the size. Like we said earlier, bigger doesn’t necessarily mean better and whether you go for a single or double patty here, Shake Shack burgers tend to hit the spot every time. While our frontrunner remains the Shackmeister (with those perfectly crispy ale-marinated shallots), the vegan crispy shallot burger is another one of our favourites. shakeshack.co.uk Coqfighter We’ve been pretty focused on beef burgers up until now – although still acknowledging the delicious vegan versions those burger brands have to offer – but here’s a spot that knows its stuff when it comes to fried chicken. It seemed only fitting that we tried the variety of sides on the menu, with the laksa butter wings and classic buffalo options taking centre stage. Don’t worry – we left room for the burgers, and thoroughly enjoyed devouring the iconic green chilli cheeseburger, featuring chipotle mayo and pickled green chilli. The honey ginger buffalo (what better string of words or ingredients is there?) is also a strong choice – but beware, it’s a messy one. coqfighter.com The Beaumont Stepping away from the classic burger joints, there are many standard restaurants in London that serve up burgers to rival those whose sole purpose is to cook them. The Beaumont is one of these spots, with Gatsby’s Room, situated in the centre of the hotel, offering the perfect escape from the buzz of central London. The Beaumont cheeseburger features a juicy patty on top of caramelised onions and is slathered with a rich and moreish secret sauce – proving that a good old fashioned favourite can still leave a lasting impression. Served with thick cut chips, it’s ideal for anyone who fancies a more decadent setting when devouring such a meal. thebeaumont.com Five Guys Another American food chain to make a long-lasting impression on the UK burger community, Five Guys is exactly where our brain goes when we think of the ultimate dirty burger. Things are kept simple, with a hamburger, cheeseburger, bacon burger and bacon cheeseburger on that side of the menu (the chain also includes hot dogs and various sandwiches, too) and if you ever have that intense craving, this may be the place to satisfy it. While a tricky one for anyone with a nut allergy (the chips are fried in peanut oil), the burgers come with two patties as standard and can be washed down with one of the many milkshake flavours on offer. If you want to cement yourself as a firm fan, Five Guys has also released its own line of merchandise so you can fully embrace the burger brand. fiveguys.co.uk The Mayfair Chippy And then there are the establishments that don’t want to miss out on the action. The Mayfair Chippy has launched a fish and chips-themed burger especially for National Burger Day – proving that you don’t need to be a burger bar to celebrate the occasion. The luxe burger is set to include only the most premium fillings of a halibut patty, deep fried lobster tail, spiced caviar mayonnaise, truffle comte cheese, brioche and pickles. It’s a pricey one, coming in at £60, and includes a side of chips and salad, too. It’s only available Thursday 24 August so if this sounds intriguing, head to Mayfair pronto. mayfairchippy.com So we’ve covered food and now what about wine? Meet the sommeliers who are breaking the industry’s stuffy stereotype Read More The best outdoor restaurants, terraces and rooftop bars in London to book now In-N-Out owner reveals where ‘animal style’ name comes from Foodies forced to eat their own words after trick ‘gourmet’ meal Starbucks releases new fall menu with two brand-new drinks: ‘Pure joy’

In-N-Out’s classic “animal style” burger and fries used to be a secret menu item at the fast food chain, but has since become one most customers are now familiar with. The option became so popular that it is now listed under the “not so secret menu” category on In-N-Out’s website. As for what it entails, “animal style” refers to a burger with a beef patty grilled with mustard then served with pickles, lettuce, grilled onions, and extra spread on a toasted bun. Animal style fries, meanwhile, are topped with cheese, spread, and grilled onions. Although part of the menu, it wasn’t previously clear where the name for the burger joint’s style came from, until now. Lynsi Snyder, one of the owners of In-N-Out, is sharing the chain’s secret, and other unknown details about the restaurant, in her book set to come out in October titled, The Ins-N-Outs of In-N-Out Burger: The Inside Story of California’s First Drive-Through and How it Became a Beloved Cultural Icon. According to Insider, which received an advance copy of Synder’s book, one of the sections is called “Birth of Icons,” in which Synder discussed how the “animal style” burger was named. It turns out that animal comes from rowdy customers or “animals.” Snyder wrote that these customers “would honk their horns while orders were taken,” or they would “leave trash on the lots and play their music extra loud”. According to Syner, they were sometimes so rowdy they would get into fights with each other. At the time, employees at In-N-Out were called “helpers” who began to call these customers “animals.” “Good naturedly, the helpers inside referred to them as ‘animals,’” Snyder wrote. She added that, one night in 1961, an “animal” spotted a manager making himself a burger. The joint was originally designed with floor-to-ceiling windows so customers could watch burgers being prepared, which was co-founder Harry Snyder’s idea, as he “believed customers would enjoy seeing their food made with care,” Snyder explained. The customer was intrigued as to what this burger was and asked him what was in it. “It’s mustard fried,” Roberts responded, according to the book. “I add pickles, grilled onions, and extra spread.” In response, the customer said: “Sounds amazing. Can you make me one too?” according to the book. Roberts obliged, and “the guy wolfed it down,” calling it the best burger he ever had, Snyder wrote. The customer liked it so much that he continued to order it, but had no idea what to call. Eventually Roberts told him, “Just call it Animal Style,” according to Synder. “That’s how Animal Style burgers got their name, and the request is the first known instance of a secret In-N-Out menu item,” Snyder wrote. Today, this style is a popular way to not only order burgers, but fries as well. Synder wrote that the case for other items on the “not so secret menu” comes from custom creations customers have come up with over the years. For example, the Double-Double was a custom “double meat, double cheese” off-menu order made by guests looking for a meatier meal, Snyder wrote. The Double-Double first appeared on the menu during the 1 August 1966 opening of store number six, according to the book. Read More Khloe Kardashian teases Kris Jenner for not knowing cost of fast food after she gave her $300 for In-N-Out Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez sparks debate after declaring In-N-Out ‘overrated’: ‘Thank you for saying this’ ‘We refuse to become vaccination police’: In-N-Out Burger is a leading mandate opponent on the West Coast Starbucks releases new fall menu with two brand-new drinks: ‘Pure joy’ What is the UK’s cheapest meal deal? Waitrose has launched its first ever lunchtime meal deal

Starbucks has just dropped its 2023 fall lineup with the added surprise of two brand new drinks alongside fan favourites like the iconic Pumpkin Spice Latte. According to the coffee chain, fans should be prepared to say goodbye to summer with a taste of fall on 24 August, when items new and old make their way to Starbucks locations. As companies all over begin to decorate their storefronts with autumn-themed merchandise, Starbucks prepares to celebrate not only one of its most lucrative seasons but also the 20th anniversary of the Pumpkin Spice Latte. The popular seasonal drink has over the past two decades become synonymous with fall itself. Some other beloved drinks joining the 2023 lineup include newer fan favourites like the Pumpkin Cream Cold Brew and the Apple Crisp Oatmilk Macchiato. Meanwhile, the new drinks on the block will include the Iced Pumpkin Cream Chai Tea Latte, which was reportedly inspired by a popular barista and customer customisation. The new drink takes Starbucks’ classic chai up a notch with the added twist of the highly anticipated, seasonal pumpkin cream cold foam. Starbucks beverage developer Billy Altieri said in a press release: "The warm spice flavors of chai and pumpkin seamlessly blend together, creating a creamy and comforting iced beverage.” Meanwhile, another new addition will be the Iced Apple Crisp Oatmilk Shaken Espresso, following in the footsteps of its much warmer predecessor. Altieri described the new twist on the fan-favourite as “the warm, gooey taste of apple crisp paired with a cup of coffee meld perfectly to unveil a cosy beverage”. Starbucks Reserve locations around the United States will also be offering pumpkin spice beverages, including the Starbucks Reserve Pumpkin Spice Latte, Pumpkin Spice Whiskey Barrel-Aged Iced Latt, and Pumpkin Spice Espresso Martini. There will also be new items from the Princi Bakery on the menu, such as the Pumpkin Maritozzo and Pumpkin Spice cake among others. At Starbucks Reserve and select Starbucks locations, there will also be two special whole bean coffees available for purchase: the Starbucks Reserve Vietnam Du Lat and Malawi Sable Farms. Some tried and true classics will also be on the menu at regular Starbucks shops to satisfy customers alongside the new fall flavours, notably pastries like the Pumpkin Cream Cheese Muffin, Baked Apple Croissant, and Owl Cake Pop. Staple coffee beans like the Guatemala Casi Cielo, which the company has been using since 2004 when the Pumpkin Spice Latte was first launched, will also return. Fans took to Twitter to express their excitement, with one user writing that they had “been waiting for this all year,” and another wondering: “Why not keep fan favourites year-round? Imagine sipping a Pumpkin Spice Latte in April! It’s more than just a drink; it’s an experience.” However, some were perplexed that the company was launching its lineup so early, writing: “it’s AUGUST bro.” But mostly, people were simply ecstatic that their favourite drinks were back: “Enjoying all the pumpkin spice and don’t care what anyone says!” Read More What is the UK’s cheapest meal deal? Waitrose has launched its first ever lunchtime meal deal 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy

As the cost of food rises and people continue returning to the office after lockdowns, finding an affordable lunch on the go is becoming more and more essential. Waitrose has just announced it is launching its first-ever lunchtime meal deal, with the premium supermarket offering a main, side and drink for £5. This is the most expensive meal deal among retailers at the time of writing. The return to the office following the lifting of lockdown restrictions has meant that millions of workers are reluctant to spend a fortune on lunches, but are still searching for an affordable and easy option nearby their office or workplace. But as food prices rise, the cost of the most reliable lunch staple, the meal deal, has increased across UK retailers. For example, Tesco had its meal deal priced at £3 for almost a decade, before increasing it to £3.90 for regular customers and £3.40 for Clubcard holders in October 2022. With that in mind, and since it’s important to have a lunch to look forward to, how much does a meal deal cost in 2023? Tesco Regular price: £3.90 Clubcard holders: £3.40 The supermarket also offers a £5 premium meal deal, offering a premium main, snack and drink. Sainsbury’s Standard price: £3.50 Greggs Standard price: £3.60 Boots Standard price: £3.99 (excluding London) Advantage Card price: £3.60 London price: £4.50 with an advantage card, £4.99 without Co-op Standard price: £4 Co-op membership card holders: £3.50 Morrisons Standard price: £4 Waitrose Standard price: £5 Read More Former royal chef explains why Prince William and Kate’s children don’t eat with them Prince Harry and Meghan Markle sightseeing tour led by Thomas Markle’s friend sparks outrage over privacy Bride tries on mother’s wedding dress 30 years after parents’ wedding Waitrose has launched its first ever lunchtime meal deal 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy What to cook this week: Tomato tart, sweetcorn pasta and other summery suppers

Waitrose has joined major supermarkets by introducing its first lunchtime meal deal. The upmarket retailer has said that on 30 August, it will be introducing its Food To Go offer, which will include a main, side and drink for £5, due to the growing demand for easy lunches as workers return to the office following the end of the pandemic. The deal will include a range of sandwiches, wraps, sushi and salads, alongside fruit, cereal bars, juices and smoothies. Waitrose has long offered all these products as part of its Food To Go range, but this is the first time they will be available in a lunchtime deal. Waitrose joins other supermarket chains including Sainsbury’s, Tesco, Morrisons and also Boots, which all offer lunch deals – but Waitrose’s deal is the most expensive, with Tesco’s deal costing £3.90 and Sainsbury’s and Morrisons’s equivalents costing £3.50. Meanwhile, a Boots meal deal costs £3.99 but it is £3.60 if you use an Advantage Card. MyWaitrose customers who bring in their own cup can also get a free cup of coffee when they buy their £5 meal deal. The supermarket has launched its first vegan BLT sandwich, and have also included chilled snacks such as Taiko gyoza and Higgidy ham hock & cheddar rolls in the deal. Speaking about the new launch, Waitrose Food To Go buyer Jennifer Moscardini said: “We know lots of our customers are heading into our shops to grab something for their lunch, so to be able to offer them a convenient, high-quality and great value meal deal is really important for us.” It follows reports that Waitrose and John Lewis will start offering free hot drinks and discounted food to on-duty police officers in an attempt to tackle shoplifting. The upmarket shops hope uniformed police and patrol cars being on site will deter thieves in a similar way to which motorists slow down on the roads when they see officers. John Lewis Partnership, which owns the brands, has written to the Police Federation to say officers can get free coffee if they bring a reusable cup. Community support officers will also be able to take advantage of the initiative, which John Lewis has named “thanks a latte”. Read More Prince Harry and Meghan Markle sightseeing tour led by Thomas Markle’s friend sparks outrage over privacy Bride tries on mother’s wedding dress 30 years after parents’ wedding Former royal chef explains why Prince William and Kate’s children don’t eat with them

Warm summer evenings call for tasty meals, without having to spend hours in the kitchen. To help those looking for quick and easy summer mealtime inspiration, Discover Great Veg has shared a menu of tasty recipes packed full of our favourite vegetables, that can be on the table in under half an hour. With five flavoursome recipes to choose from, each inspired by global cuisines, there is something for everyone to enjoy. From the Moroccan flavours of the harissa and kale flatbreads, to the washing-up friendly, one-pot kale and carrot pilaf, these dishes are all fuss-free and can be made with minimal preparation. For a light and zesty supper with fewer than 450 calories, look to the Asian-style shredded chicken and kale salad. This dish takes less than five minutes to cook and is ideal for using up any leftover roast chicken you may have in the fridge. The Japanese-inspired salmon with soy, cavolo nero and sushi rice makes an impressive dinner, but takes just 20 minutes to get on the table. The kale and carrot pilaf is an easy, nourishing meal for all the family to enjoy, and better still – it only needs one pan to make. Finally, bring a taste of the Middle East to your day with the cavolo nero and chickpea falafelswith harrissa, a colourful dish that takes just 10 minutes to prep and 10 minutes to cook. Or the harissa, kale and hummus flatbreads is a tasty alternative to a sandwich and contains one of your five a day, is low in saturated fat and a great source of fibre, protein and folate. Asian-style shredded chicken and kale salad Serves: 2 Prep time: 10 minutes | Cooking time: 3 minutes Ingredients: 125g kale 1 small leek, shredded Zest and juice 1 lime 3 tbsp coconut cream 1 tbsp mayonnaise 1 tsp Thai fish sauce 1 carrot, shredded 200g roast chicken, shredded Method: Cook the kale in boiling water for 2 minutes, add then leek and cook for 30 seconds then drain and run under cold water. Pat dry on kitchen paper. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix together the lime zest and juice, the coconut cream, mayonnaise and fish sauce, toss in the carrot, chicken and kale mix, season to taste. Cooks tip: Great for leftover roast chicken from the Sunday roast and perfect for picnics. Cavolo nero falafels with harissa yoghurt sauce Serves: 2 Prep time: 10 minutes | Cooking time: 10 minutes Ingredients: 400g can chick peas, drained and rinsed 200g pack cavolo nero, thick stalks removed 1 tbsp tahini 1 clove garlic ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground coriander 2 tbsp vegetable oil 100g yoghurt (or plant-based alternative) 1 tsp harissa paste Method: Place the chickpeas in a food processor with the leaves from 2 stems cavolo nero, roughly chopped, the tahini, garlic and spices and blend to a coarse paste, season well. Divide into 8 and roll into balls. Heat the oil and fry the falafels for 2-3 minutes until golden, turning once half way. Remove and add the remaining cavolo nero, shredded and fry for 2-3 minutes, season. Meanwhile, mix together the yoghurt and harissa. Serve the falafels onto the cavolo nero and drizzle with the harissa yoghurt. Harissa, kale and hummus flatbreads Serves: 2 Prep time: 10 minutes | Cooking time: 5 minutes Ingredients: 1 tbsp olive oil 250g bag kale, thick stalks removed 1 tbsp harissa paste 2 flatbreads 100g hummus Pomegranate seed and toasted sesame seed to garnish (optional) Method: Preheat the oven to 200C, gas mark 6. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the kale for 3-4 minutes, add the harissa and season. Meanwhile, warm the flatbreads according to pack instructions. Spread with the hummus and top with the kale. Serve sprinkled with pomegranate and sesame seeds if liked. Kale and carrot spelt pilaf Serves: 4 Prep time: 10 minutes | Cooking time: 30 minutes Ingredients: 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 red onion, chopped 2 carrots, sliced 1 tbsp curry powder 250g spelt 800ml vegetable stock 50g sultanas 250g bag kale Coriander to garnish Method: Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the onion and carrots for 5 minutes. Stir in the curry powder and cook for 1 minute. Add the spelt and then the stock and sultanas. Bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the kale and cook for a further 5 minutes. Season to taste. Serve sprinkled with chopped coriander. Salmon with soy, cavolo nero and sushi rice Serves: 2 Prep time: 10 minutes | Cooking time: 20 minutes Ingredients: ½ small red onion, sliced 25g sushi ginger, shredded, plus 1 tbsp pickling juice 125g sushi rice 1 tbsp vegetable oil 2 salmon fillets 125g thick cut cavolo nero 2 tsp toasted sesame oil 1 tbsp soy sauce Method: Mix the onion with the ginger juice and set aside. Place the rice, 250ml water and a pinch salt in a small saucepan, cover and cook on a low heat for 15-20 minutes until just tender, leave the lid on and set aside. Meanwhile, heat the vegetable oil in a frying pan and fry the salmon for 10 minutes, turning halfway until cooked through. Cook the cavolo nero in boiling water for 3-4 minutes, drain well. Heat the sesame oil in a frying pan and fry half the onion for 2 minutes, add the ginger, cavolo nero, rice and soy and stir fry for 1-2 minutes. Serve the salmon on top of the rice mixture and scatter with the remaining onion. For more information about great veg and to discover more delicious simple recipes, visit www.discovergreatveg.co.uk Read More What to cook this week: Tomato tart, sweetcorn pasta and other summery suppers Tofu chicken to chickpea bacon – how and why you should make plant-based meat at home The dish that defines me: Mallini Kannan’s baked honey-soy salmon Breakfast for dinner and four other things you should cook this week How to save money in the kitchen according to top chefs Money-saving chilli con carne that absolutely slaps with flavour