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I stayed at the home of Venice Film Festival – and it was quite something
I stayed at the home of Venice Film Festival – and it was quite something
As summer draws to a close, Venice prepares to open the doors to its prestigious film festival welcoming a host of a-listers, designers, a diverse catalogue of new releases and film critics to the red carpet. Each year, the Venice Lido – a short 15-minute boat ride from the famed St Mark's Square – plays host to the Venice Film Festival. While 2023's event may experience some subtle changes due to the ongoing SAG-AFTRA strike, the show seemingly must go on from 30 August to 9 September. The festival's artistic director Alberto Barbera previously described the strike's impact as "modest," with the planned lineup – including Bradley Cooper's Maestro and Sofia Coppola's Priscilla – still in competition for the Golden Lion prize. Meanwhile, the original opener, Luca Guadagnino’s Challengers featuring Zendaya, has been pushed back to an unconfirmed premiere date next year. A-listers at the 2023 Venice Film Festival have remained tight-lipped about their attendance or absence after Barbera stated "a few stars will not be with us." However, some are still expected to attend the hotly anticipated event of the year. I managed to sneak a peek at the majestic palace-style hotel where celebrities lay their heads during the decadent affair – and it certainly was something. Nestled on the Lido resides the opulent Hotel Excelsior, which has been the protagonist and host of the festival since 1932. Excelsior has welcomed the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, George Clooney and Sandra Bullock to name a few. One of the rooms, renowned as the Stucchi room, even had its own starring role in Robert De Niro's Once Upon A Time In America. Excelsior epitomises the golden age of film, with its alluring cocktail of history, culture, laidback glamour and charm. The moment I stepped foot into the hotel lobby and strolled through the halls adorned with candid shots of classic Hollywood stars and complete with designer boutiques, I was transcended into a world of luxury beyond measure. A far cry from the dismal UK summer. Excelsior owes its success to entrepreneur Nicolò Spada, who commissioned the famed Venetian architect Giovanni Sardi to make the dream "only on paper" come to fruition. They have since welcomed over 110 years' worth of guests, with 30,000 Venetians and over 3,000 guests flocking to the grand opening for a single evening in July 1908. The unmatched hospitality and Venetian charm continue to this day, with depths of space, pools, a fitness studio and the only resort with its very own private beach complete with cabanas that provide a peaceful paradise for guests. A live piano performance of Audrey Hepburn's 'Moon River', hand-in-hand with an idyllic backdrop of the skyline, certainly set the tone for dinner at the Adriatico Terrace, where I was served a heavenly three-course meal. This included what can possibly only be described as the most exquisite dessert I've ever encountered. Interestingly, the terrace is where the official 1932 Venice Film Festival launch took place with a view of films that are considered classics to this day. These include Frank Capra's Forbidden, Grand Hotel by Edmund Goulding and the original Frankenstein by James Whale. Now, with a hotel so grand and weather we Brits have been deprived of all summer, it was rather tempting to stay on the grounds and do absolutely nothing but be a voyeur to how the other half live. As dreamy as that sounds, the push of encouragement came from a complimentary boat taxi service that runs throughout the day between Venice and Lido. A short 15 minutes across the water, I became a full-fledged tourist with gelato and a gondola ride rounded off with a Bellini at the famous Harry's Bar, the birthplace of the iconic cocktail renowned across the world. When the day was done, I headed back to my newfound comforts back at Excelsior. After 48 hours of experiencing unmatched laidback luxury, I (reluctantly) headed back to a rainy UK. As for whether I'd recommend Excelsior? Absolutely. Even if it's to stop by on your Venice travels to try out the evening menu, open to non-guests with prior booking. For more information on stays and events at Hotel Excelsior, click here. Sign up for our free Indy100 weekly newsletter Have your say in our news democracy. Click the upvote icon at the top of the page to help raise this article through the indy100 rankings.
2023-08-27 15:22
'The more real it felt, the funnier it gets': Josh Greenbaum used actual dog footage for Strays
'The more real it felt, the funnier it gets': Josh Greenbaum used actual dog footage for Strays
Josh Greenbaum wanted footage of real dogs to be used in his comedy film 'Strays' to add to the humour of the movie.
2023-08-27 15:16
This country is finally reopening after Covid. But it still requires a one-week quarantine
This country is finally reopening after Covid. But it still requires a one-week quarantine
North Korea has announced it will allow its citizens living abroad to return home in an easing of its coronavirus-era border controls. But it will still require them to do a one-week quarantine.
2023-08-27 14:15
Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan on 20 years of L’Enclume: ‘It all started with a radish’
Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan on 20 years of L’Enclume: ‘It all started with a radish’
In Cartmel, a picture-postcard Cumbrian village on the cusp of the Lake District, chefs in their whites are scurrying across the cobbled streets like an army of well-dressed worker ants. Some are heaving wheelbarrows stacked with mounds of freshly picked vegetables, still earthy from the farm; others are dashing from one building to another, precariously balancing enormous stacks of clean pans. They all have one thing in common: they work for Simon Rogan. If they’re the workers, he’s the queen. This well-rehearsed choreography is a typical sight every morning in Cartmel, where the Michelin-starred chef – one of only eight to own a three-starred restaurant in the UK – set up shop 20 years ago. After a decade of working at various levels in restaurants around the country (including a placement under Marco Pierre White and two years at the three-star Lucas Carton in Paris), Rogan was keen to open his own restaurant. Priced out of Hampshire and Sussex, he looked further afield and found a rundown 800-year-old former smithy in Cartmel available to rent. “I didn’t come here for anything as glamorous as the area or the scenery or the people,” he tells me, having just taken me on a tour of said area to meet said people. “It was just for this building. I was desperate for my own restaurant. I felt like I had never really achieved the things that I’d wanted to working for other people. I wanted to make my own mistakes and be in control of our own destiny. I know it sounds cheesy, but it’s true.” He made an offer on his way back from his first visit to the area, and L’Enclume was born. “Once you realise where you are, you think: s***, this is beautiful,” he adds, laughing. Over the next two decades, the ambitious chef transformed the Cumbrian village into a culinary destination unlike anywhere else in the UK. It’s now home to not only L’Enclume – awarded the environmental green star in 2021 and the coveted third star in last year’s Michelin Guide – but also the one-starred neighbourhood eatery Rogan & Co, and Aulis, L’Enclume’s six-seater chef’s table behind the main restaurant. He also put his name to Henrock, a more informal and relaxed offering just a half hour’s drive away at Linthwaite House, overlooking Lake Windermere. The engine behind this mini empire, and the reason I’m here, is Our Farm, a 12-acre plot in Cartmel that supplies the majority of the restaurants’ ingredients. A sustainable, closed-loop growing operation had always been “at the back of his mind”, Rogan says. He was inspired by his father, a fruit and vegetable salesman who would bring home a box of the day’s best produce, teaching him the importance of using every part of the ingredient. When they arrived in Cartmel to get started, though, “the standard of produce”, Rogan says “was absolutely rubbish. The reason we got into farming was my frustration at the ability to buy a perfect radish, which is the easiest thing in the world to grow.” They rented a small plot close to the restaurant, and filled in the gaps with local suppliers. But, back in 2002, it was too expensive to buy organic. “Things were triple the price they are now,” Rogan tells me, taking a sip of his beetroot juice at the Aulis counter. “So we bought little bits and pieces here and there alongside the normal suppliers. Then we had the opportunity to take over the farm. That’s when we thought: ‘Right, let’s start growing radishes.’” What started as a little garden has become something bigger than he could ever have anticipated. A restaurant growing its own produce is not a groundbreaking concept, but a kitchen garden this is not. You won’t find pristine beds and trimmed rose bushes and arty ornaments. But you will find a patchwork of muddy fields growing hardy vegetables, the topsoil painstakingly “fluffed” by hand; a regiment of polytunnels housing the more finicky plants, delicate micro herbs and other culinary experiments (I try something that tastes like pickled onion Monster Munch); and enormous hand-rotated compost bins that process all the food waste from the restaurants into mulch for the farm. All this is surrounded by hedgerows that have been carefully curated to attract birds and other wildlife to act as natural pesticides. None of this would be possible without head farmer John Rowland. Regenerative agriculture might be his trade, but birds are his true passion. During a tour of the farm, he lists off the species he’s seen circling overhead, drawn by the blackthorn, hawthorn, rowan and birch trees he’s been planting on the borders. “We cater for the birds more than the people,” he tells me, in a Welsh accent so bucolic I wonder whether he’s been shipped in specifically for the tour. “Everything on the farm has a use, and not only in a culinary way. The seeds and the berries attract the birds onto the farm. The birds are my pest control, so the more I can attract to the farm, the more pest control I have, and that is fantastic for birdlife. In Britain, we’ve lost 84 per cent of our bird species, but this area is really rich because of these techniques.” While he might prefer looking upwards, it’s what’s beneath our feet that Rowland is really focused on. “The life is in the soil,” he says, grabbing a great fistful of the stuff. “You have hundreds of types of fungus right here. We don’t want to disturb that biome in the ground so rather than rotavating the soil [breaking up the earth with a machine ready for planting] and destroying the millions of organisms that live in it, we build a six-inch layer of compost on top and aerate it with a fork. Once you’ve done that, each year you just top it off with an inch, and that’s regenerative farming,” he says matter-of-factly, clapping the dirt from his hands. Well, that’s the gist anyway, and while it’s perhaps a little more complicated than that, Rowland struggles to understand why more people aren’t farming in this way. “We’re the most nature-depleted country in the world. We’ve lost our wildflower meadows, we’ve lost our insect population, we’ve lost our wild songbird population. They’ve taken the hedgerows away to make the fields bigger. All the natural food in our countryside is being lost to intensive farming.” Regenerative techniques like those Rowland is putting into practice on Our Farm would go some way to reclaiming it, he says, but “it’s a shame that they don’t realise that”. He pauses for a moment, then corrects himself: “Well, it’s not that they don’t realise it. They know. It’s just that they want intensive farming because it makes them money and it’s wrong because we are killing everything.” How this translates to the table at L’Enclume is manifold. Every dish on the menu begins life on the farm, where Rowland will flag what’s in season and at its best, or suggest something new he’s been experimenting with. Or it might start as an ingredient foraged from the countryside or sourced from a local supplier. The idea is then tweaked in the development kitchen at Aulis, before it finally makes its way to the pass at L’Enclume. This results in a transient snapshot of Cumbrian cuisine that changes every time you dine, and a menu quite unlike anything else I’ve come across. When I visit in February, Boltardy beetroot – a variety chosen for its resistance to erratic weather – shines in a bitesize tart with smoked pike-perch fished locally, and perilla, a Southeast Asian herb cultivated on the farm that adds notes of mint and licorice. Elsewhere, there’s lovage and rose hip and lemon thyme, all foraged; there’s Cornish cod and Mylor prawns and potted shrimp and Maldon oysters; sweetcorn and champagne rhubarb from the farm that were fermented after they were harvested last summer so they could be used year-round; and an enormous selection of British cheeses, including Tunworth, which is frozen and crumbled in a palate-perplexing, salty-sweet dessert. It happens to be my favourite dish. Managing a farm-to-fork operation this complex, not to mention the empire, is no mean feat. “I could pretty confidently be a tax exile given how little I am in the UK at the moment,” he jokes. When we chatted in February, the team was preparing to revive their pre-Covid plan for a five-week residency in Sydney, which concluded this month. The punchline, of course, is the delay meant Aussies were given a taste of not a two-star L’Enclume, but all four stars. Given Australia is yet to receive a Michelin Guide and is not particularly well known for its agricultural sustainability, it was an interesting move, but one there is clearly appetite for. Despite the $420-a-head price tag, it was sold out, serving more than 4,000 diners. While the food at L’Enclume, at home and abroad, is clearly special, it’s the people that set it apart from other restaurants in this league. Their hospitality, affability and, perhaps most noticeably, northern accents, are not typically what you find at this price bracket (£250 a head for the tasting menu, plus £100-£290 for a pairing). Stuffiness is neither present nor tolerated. Many of the staff have been with Rogan since the beginning, switched between the restaurants, or left for pastures new only to return. “We get a lot of people coming back – only the ones we want, anyway,” he says slyly. There’s certainly been a few famous quarrels. The “Rogan alumni” is a term thrown around a lot during my visit, and includes Mark Birchall, who was executive chef at L’Enclume during its two-star era before setting up a curiously similar “restaurant with rooms”, Moor Hall, in Lancashire, which also boasts two stars and a further green. Then there’s Dan Cox, who cut his teeth at Rogan’s now-closed Fera in Claridges as well as L’Enclume, and helped him set up Our Farm in the early days. He’s now down in Cornwall, running the farm-to-table Crocadon. But, generally, people are drawn back to L’Enclume for the variety it has to offer. “Look around the country,” says Rogan, “and [other restaurants] haven’t got any staff because they can’t offer as many career progression opportunities for people. I suppose that makes them lucky. “It’s about not spreading yourself too thin. We’re only able to do these things because these guys are really, really hungry.” Acknowledging that hunger, he established the Simon Rogan Academy in 2021 to “nurture aspiring chefs”. It includes paid work across the Cartmel restaurants, and culminates in a week-long placement at his restaurant Roganic in Hong Kong. In the beginning, “we thought that maybe if we had just a third of them left at the end of the quarter, it’d be brilliant,” Rogan tells me. “But almost all of them stayed on! And now they all want jobs” – he comically rolls his eyes – “but really it’s great.” As I drift between the farm and the Cartmel restaurants, everyone hard at work but always smiling, it strikes me that L’Enclume isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a story. And its influence is immense. “Sustainability”, “farm-to-table” and “regenerative agriculture” were mere whisperings 20 years ago. Now they’re affixed to almost every new menu, and you could say they were born here. The people I’ve met could well be the next batch of Rogan alumni, attracting Michelin’s attention with their own restaurants in years to come. If it takes 20 years to craft a legacy like this, then I’ll make sure I come back in 2043. For more information about L’Enclume, visit www.lenclume.co.uk and for more information about Simon Rogan and his other restaurants visit www.simonrogan.co.uk Read More Why I won’t be doing Veganuary this year – or ever again Marina O’Loughlin is wrong – there’s joy in solo dining Michel Roux Jr announces closure of renowned restaurant Le Gavroche to have ‘better work/life balance’ The true story – and murky history – of Portuguese piri piri oil 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy What to cook this week: Tomato tart, sweetcorn pasta and other summery suppers
2023-08-27 13:56
German Inflation Trauma of 1923 Strikes an Uneasy Chord Today
German Inflation Trauma of 1923 Strikes an Uneasy Chord Today
By late-1923, hyperinflation had rendered Germany’s currency so worthless that one woman used several billion marks of banknotes
2023-08-27 13:47
Ferris State University to allow students to live with pets on campus
Ferris State University to allow students to live with pets on campus
Some students moving on campus at Ferris State University this fall won't have to leave their furry friends back home, thanks to a program the Michigan school is piloting.
2023-08-27 13:21
Putin's war is forcing Russians to ditch a favorite holiday destination
Putin's war is forcing Russians to ditch a favorite holiday destination
For more than nine years, Russian tourists vacationing in Crimea didn't need to give much thought to the fact that their country was waging war on Ukraine - or that their sun lounger was parked on occupied territory.
2023-08-27 13:17
Ten-hut Time Machine? West Point to open time capsule possibly left by cadets in the 1820s
Ten-hut Time Machine? West Point to open time capsule possibly left by cadets in the 1820s
The contents of a long-forgotten time capsule recently discovered inside the base of a monument at West Point and believed to have been left by cadets in the late 1820s are set to be revealed
2023-08-27 12:49
Honoring the legacy of game show host and activist Bob Barker
Honoring the legacy of game show host and activist Bob Barker
For over thirty years, Bob Barker was known and loved as the host of the hit game show "The Price is Right." He famously ended each episode telling viewers to spay or neuter their pets. Barker spent decades giving his time and money to better the lives of creatures big and small. Here are several organizations you can donate to in honor of Bob Barker's legacy.
2023-08-27 11:49
China’s Travel Rebound Risks Super-Charging Jet Fuel Prices
China’s Travel Rebound Risks Super-Charging Jet Fuel Prices
After years of pent-up demand for leisure and business travel due to the ravages of Covid-19, millions of
2023-08-27 08:50
Bob Barker, former longtime host of 'The Price Is Right,' dead at 99
Bob Barker, former longtime host of 'The Price Is Right,' dead at 99
Bob Barker, the "Price Is Right" host whose silky-smooth command, impish sense of humor and advocacy for animal welfare issues made him a beloved fixture on television for more than 35 years, has died. He was 99.
2023-08-27 01:27
Google Wants to Let You Search for a Song by Humming It
Google Wants to Let You Search for a Song by Humming It
Soon you might be able to hum a few lines from that song you can’t
2023-08-27 01:24
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